Whether you’re looking for a cheap feeder or trying to add a fun cleaner to your aquarium, this guide should offer all you need to care for Ghost Shrimp. 

Ghost Shrimp Facts

Appearance

As their name suggests, ghost shrimp are “clear” to help them avoid predators. Their translucence would make them hard to spot in an aquarium, but you can see them swimming around due to their active nature. 

Although transparent, you can often find a sprinkling of green, or sometimes yellow, dots across their body. These sometimes turn grey and they’re more apparent in some shrimp than others. 

Ghost shrimp are similar to larger shrimp in appearance, although their transparent bodies allow you to see inside their bodies. They have an exoskeleton around the outside of their body, which acts as the first line of defense for their soft insides. 

They have a rostrum on the front of their face, similar to a nose, and two antennae. The antennae are used for chemical and sensory detection. Ghost Shrimp reach an average of 1.5 inches, with females usually ½ an inch longer than males. Males also have thinner bodies than females.

Behavior 

Ghost Shrimp spend most of their time scavenging and cleaning. They can be found swimming around the tank and occasionally interacting with other shrimp. Little is known about their interactions, though they can be aggressive towards one another on occasion. 

Besides the occasional skirmish, Ghost Shrimp are incredibly docile. They spend most of their time grazing off plants and cleaning algae off the walls of your aquarium. They are also known to burrow, so don’t be alarmed if you notice them spending time on the substrate or digging. 

Lifespan

Ghost Shrimp are not for the easily attached; they only live up to a year. It is not uncommon for Ghost Shrimp to enter new aquariums and die a couple of days after arrival for no apparent reason. Their short lifespans should be taken into account when caring for Ghost Shrimp. 

Molting

Ghost Shrimp will molt often depending on how much they eat and how much more room they have for growth. They shed their exoskeleton to grow, which leads to them being unprotected by their outer shell for a couple of days. It is not uncommon to find your shrimp still or hiding right before they molt. 

After a molt, they’re vulnerable to fish in your aquarium. Make sure to offer plenty of hiding spots for the shrimp, such as caves, grass, moss, etc. These areas will allow your shrimp a safe place to heal after their molt. Their molts look like an entire shrimp (to varying degrees) but limp. New aquarists sometimes mistake the molt for a dead shrimp, but no need to worry. Molting is natural. 

Leave the molt in your aquarium. The shrimp or other fish in the tank will eat the molt. The shed exoskeleton offers nutrition. 

It is not uncommon to see cannibalism among shrimp. A common misunderstanding is that a shrimp attacked and ate the other shrimp. More often than not, the shrimp was already dead before the other shrimp decided to eat the dead tankmate. As morbid as this might seem, shrimp are scavengers. 

Diet

Consider Ghost Shrimp opportunistic feeders. They’ll eat anything and everything put in front of them, similar to my husband. The majority of their diet should be plant-based. In a well-stocked plant tank, they should have plenty to graze and feed off. You might notice them picking through algae in the substrate and walls of their aquarium. 

Since their diet is largely vegetation, regularly feeding your Ghost Shrimp is not a significant concern. Unlike fish that you might feed once or even multiple times a day, you can easily feed a Ghost Shrimp once or twice a week. 

When feeding Ghost Shrimp, be careful not to leave food in the aquarium. If shrimp are no longer actively feeding on a pellet or wafer, remove the food immediately. Food left unattended in tanks can quickly lead to poor water quality. 

Your Ghost Shrimp will eat off just about any fish food you introduce to the tank. Here are some foods that are excellent for Ghost Shrimp

• Bloodworms
• Flakes
• Algae Wafers
• Almond Leaves
• Spirulina
• Blanched Spinach (excellent source of calcium)

One nutrient that Ghost Shrimp need is calcium. They can receive this from their food or nutrient mineralization. Calcium allows their shells to grow strong and is found naturally in water sources. 

Calcium Carbonate is in 30-50% of your shrimp’s exoskeleton or their “shell.” You might notice issues with molting or cracks in their shell if calcium is not available. 

The good news is that adding calcium to their water or diet is simple. There are plenty of options. Just make sure to dose slowly and carefully if adding minerals to the water. Oftentimes tricks that raise calcium also raise pH as well, so monitor progress and start slow. 

A couple of ways to raise calcium levels in aquariums are

• Calcium Carbonate
• Food treated with extra calcium.
• Shrimp mineral additives
• Antacid tablets
• Mineral calcium blocks
• Shrimp King Mineral (the only one I have personally used)
• Veggie Sticks with calcium
• Cuttle Bones
• Oyster Shells

I would suggest starting with food such as blanched spinach or food with added protein are a remineralizer. The other methods do work but tend to bring other water quality parameters out of balance quickly, especially in smaller tanks. 

Breeding

When breeding, make sure to have your male and female shrimp. Male shrimp are smaller with a curved abdomen and females have a broader abdomen and are just larger overall. 

The female will release pheromones after a molt when she is ready to breed. This will signal the male to fertilize her eggs. When you notice 20-30 green dots or eggs on the bottom of her abdomen, allow approximately a week, it should take 2-3 days for the male to fertilize her eggs. Afterward, she can move to a breeder tank, where it will be safer for newborn shrimp. 

After the time has passed, remove the male and keep the female in the smaller tank. In this tank, all you need is a sponge filter attached to an air pump, a lid, a dim light, a fine substrate, and a couple of plants for the newly born shrimp to hide in. 

The female should hatch her eggs in 12-14 days. Unlike many dwarf shrimp species, these shrimp have a larval stage and will not look like a miniature version of their parents. As soon as you notice her eggs are gone, remove the mother back to the main tank. 

To feed the larval shrimp, you will need a syringe and powdered foods. Spirulina, zooplankton, and artemia will make excellent food. Make sure to swirl it in their water and into the tank. The larval shrimp will hang out near the top of the tank, and the syringed food can be spread across the top of your tank. You can feed the baby shrimp twice a day, approximately 50-100mL of food. Try not to pollute the water and keep the food spaced out across the tank. 

Once your shrimp look like shrimp or go through metamorphosis, you can feed them normal foods. Five weeks after hatching, your shrimp should be large enough to reintroduce to the main tank. If you’re unsure, add one and see how the young shrimp generally does. If they can fit in any of their tankmates’ mouths, don’t add them yet.

Use as Feeders

Ghost Shrimp are often used to feed other pets. This is due to their abundance in the fish community and their low cost. Another benefit to keeping Ghost Shrimp as feeders is they do not carry ich and will not introduce ich to the aquarium. 

But Ghost Shrimp do carry nematodes, which are often found not to affect the fish consuming the Ghost Shrimp. 

Any fish with a large enough mouth might benefit from eating Ghost Shrimp. These include Goldfish, Gouramis, Cichlids, etc. This should not make up most of their diet due to their lack of nutritional value, but can be given as a treat or enrichment to your larger pet fish. 

Setting up your Ghost Shrimp Habitat

Aquarium Tank Size

5 gallons is the minimum size and should allow you room for 2-5 shrimp per gallon. Dwarf shrimp have a small bioload and are safe to keep in smaller aquariums. 

If you are keeping Ghost Shrimp as feeders, you can keep more shrimp per gallon. 

Type of Substrate

The best substrate for Ghost Shrimp is a fine substrate. Their heads are sensitive and they like to burrow, so heavier substrates aren’t ideal for them. 

Fine substrates also work well for plants, just add some tabbed fertilizers or liquid fertilizers, and your plants will do well despite not using a particular plant substrate. 

Filtration

Ghost Shrimp are not heavy waste producers. That’s why you can keep more shrimp in a smaller area than you would fish. Since they do not produce a heavy amount of waste, the filtration needs are minimal. 

You can purchase a shrimp-specific filter, which will be low flow and safer for shrimp that might be sucked into the filter. However, I recommend looking closely at the reviews of any shrimp filter you’re considering buying. Some models just don’t work very well. 

I keep shrimp and I prefer sponge filters. The mechanism is a simple sponge filter attached to an air stone and air pump. It holds bacteria that cleans the water and helps oxygenate it as well. They’re ideal for smaller shrimp tanks (less than 29 gallons) and it’s virtually impossible for them to harm your shrimp.

Lighting

Ghost Shrimp are not particular about their lighting. If you have plants that require high lighting, you can buy a light specifically for aquarium plants’ needs. Most shrimp feel safer with hiding areas provided by healthy plants.

Plants and Decorations

Decorations are neither essential nor detrimental to a Ghost Shrimp tank. If you would like to add decorations for aesthetics, by all means, add decorations. 

On the other hand, plants are definitely necessary additions to Ghost Shrimp tanks. They provide food, shelter, and plants help improve water quality. They also help reduce toxic compounds such as ammonia and phosphate. 

The reduction of phosphate, in turn, also reduces the amount of excess algae found in the tank. 

Plants are helpful to the overall health of your aquarium. Some good plants to keep in your Ghost Shrimp tank include:

• Wisteria
• Lilies
• Pennywort
• Hornwort
• Anubis 
• Java Moss
• Java Fern
• Moss Balls

Many other plants will work in your aquarium as well, just make sure they are safe for inhabited aquariums and all proper water quality parameters are met. 

Tankmates

Be careful with Ghost Shrimp tankmates. Many fish see Ghost Shrimp as a quick snack. A rule of thumb is not to introduce any fish that could fit a shrimp in their mouth or any aggressive species of fish. 

Tankmates you can keep with Ghost Shrimp include.

• Zebra Loaches
• Khuli Loaches
• Small nonagressive Tetras
• Amano Shrimp
• Vampire Shrimp
• Bamboo Shrimp
• Cory Catfish
• Otocinclus Catfish
• Cherry Barbs
• Danios
• Snails

Brackish

It’s a common myth that Ghost Shrimp need brackish water or “do better” in brackish water. They can survive in brackish water but do not live longer than they would in freshwater or water less than 5ppt. 

Another popular myth is that Ghost Shrimp need brackish water to breed. On the contrary, the higher the salinity, the fewer eggs will hatch. So, although you can keep a mild salinity in your 

Ghost Shrimp aquarium, it is not necessary or ideal. 

Tank Environment for Ghost Shrimp

Water Temperature

Ghost Shrimp can tolerate a wide range of temperatures from 65-82 degrees Fahrenheit. However, they prefer stability in their water conditions, so your tank should only differ between one to two degrees in 24 hours. 

Temperatures over 75 degrees Fahrenheit are more likely to induce breeding. 

Water Flow

High water flow can be an issue for Ghost Shrimp. They are not the best swimmers and will struggle if the flow is too high; if you notice your shrimp struggling to swim, adjust the flow by adding a sponge to your output or consider getting a different filtration device. 

pH

Ghost Shrimp prefer a higher pH from 7.0-8.0. This is usually easy to maintain if you are using tap water. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

Chlorine and chloramines can be removed by water by either buying pretreated RO (reverse osmosis) or DI (deionized) water or by purchasing your own RO or DI unit. If you are buying your unit, make sure to routinely clean and replace parts in the unit; otherwise, contaminants and chlorine are still likely to invade your water supply. 

Water conditioner also removes chlorine and chloramines from your tap water. Simply read the directions and dose appropriately each time you perform a water change. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

Ammonia and nitrite values should be kept at zero. If you notice an introduction of ammonia or nitrite in your water quality, conduct a 25% water change and add starter bacteria to your aquarium. This will help the aquarium cycle quicker and prevent the loss of your fish. 

Nitrate should ideally stay below 10ppm. This is easy to do as long as the tank is not overcrowded and the aquarium is not overfed. The more plants you keep in the aquarium, the less likely you should have to deal with excessive nitrates. 

If your nitrates go above 10ppm, perform two water changes per week. Shrimp will not tolerate much more than that, although you can perform a water change every other day in extreme circumstances. Do not remove more than 25% of the water at once. 

Here are some critical points in cycling and maintaining a cycled tank

• Add starter bacteria if ammonia and nitrite are present. 
• Do not clean your sponge or filter media the same day you perform a water change. 
• Perform one 15-20% water change once a week. 
• Clean filter media every 3-6 weeks. 
• Do not add all your fish at the same time. 
• Remove uneaten food. 
• Do not overfeed. 

Hardness

Ghost Shrimp prefer hard water between 5-8 GH (general hardness); this should be easy to reach when using tap water or with the addition of a calcium supplement. 

Although Ghost Shrimp prefer 5-8 GH, they will tolerate anywhere from 3-15 GH. Therefore, general hardness in their water quality is not anything to lose sleep over. 

Copper

Very important, do not use copper treatments for any invertebrates. Copper is often used to treat disease in fish but it is lethal to invertebrates, such as your Ghost Shrimp. 

Common Challenges with Ghost Shrimp and Treatments

Jumping

Ghost Shrimp are known for jumping out of their aquariums. Be careful to keep lids on at all times, including while doing water changes. 

If your Ghost Shrimp does jump out of your tank, gently pick it up and set it in the water. Be careful not to pull at any of their appendages and observe for any issues. 

Vorticella

Vorticella looks like a white spongey fungus found at the tip of your shrimp’s nose (rostrum). Vorticella is a parasite brought in by other animals, plants, and driftwood pieces. 

API primafix and saltwater baths are a great way to treat Vorticella. If you notice the Vorticella remove the shrimp to a quarantine tank, treat it with API primafix and use aquarium salt. Vorticella can be lethal but might also pass with well-kept water quality. 

Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are hard to detect in shrimp. If you notice a change in organ color, it might be a sign of a bacterial infection. Bacterial infections are often caused by poor water quality. 

Remove your shrimp and place it in a quarantine tank. This might be all the shrimp needs. Otherwise, you can dose 1mL of Hydrogen Peroxide per 4L of water to try and remove the infection. 

Fungal Infections

Fungal infections are easier to spot and look similar to fungal infections in fish: white, puffy, and similar in texture to a cotton ball. Fungal infections are likely to be caused by poor water quality as well. 

You can separate your infected shrimp to a quarantine tank. Then treat the water with an anti-fungal, careful to read over ingredients in your anti-fungal not to introduce copper. 

Final Word

Ghost Shrimp are fun and easy to care for aquarium pets.

If you’re considering adding them to your tank, just follow this guide and I’m confident that you’ll be satisfied with how happy and healthy you’ll find your shrimp to be!

More Care Guides: 

• Cherry shrimp care guide
• Molly fish care guide

The post Ghost Shrimp Care Guide: Tank and Habitat Setup appeared first on aquaticly.com.

There are around 2 million Neon Tetras sold in the United States each month. And it’s easy to see why because of their simple care requirements and eye-catching coloring. 

If you would like to keep a school of these beautiful fish, consult this Neon Tetra Care Guide first to learn how to do it right!

All About Neon Tetras

Behavior & Temperament

Technically, Neon Tetras are considered semi-aggressive, but they are unlikely to try and attack tankmates due to their relatively small size. 

Neon Tetras can get along with various fish species but they do need to be kept in a school of their species. The absolute minimum is three, but ideally, at least six should be kept in the school. The more fish, the less likely they are to bully one another, which also helps with the overall health and quality of your Neon Tetra’s life. 

Color changes are expected in Neon Tetras. During the day, you are more likely to see bright colored Neon Tetras with vibrant colors. When stressed, sick, or during the nighttime, Neon, Tetras fade in color. Often when first being transferred or at fish stores, they are seen with less vibrant colors. The color should return as they become more comfortable with their new surroundings. 

Neon Tetras school in the pelagic (middle-column) of their tank, and larger groups will school more tightly. When Neon Tetras swim in smaller schools, they are more likely to leave space between one another, creating an arguably less visually pleasing effect. 

Diet

Neon Tetras are omnivores, meaning they eat both meat and plants. Like most animals feeding a varied diet will expand the life of your fish. Ideal foods are 

• Flakes
• Bloodworms
• Micropellets
• Brine Shrimp
• Insect Larvae
• Daphnia
• Blanched Veggies

Stay away from living food due to the possible introduction of disease. 

Neon Tetras can be fed up to twice a day and should not take longer than three minutes to eat their food. If possible, remove excess food, and be careful to watch for spikes in nitrates. If your nitrates get over 20ppm and you have been conducting water changes once a week, consider reducing the amount of food offered. 

How long do they live?

Neon Tetras live for approximately five years despite their tiny size. Some have even lived as long as eight years. 

Appearance

Neon Tetras have a simple body shape reaching a max of two inches across. These fish are silver iridescent with a blue line running from behind their large eye to the top of their bodies, just perpendicular to their anal fin. A bright opaque line of red goes from the split of their tail, stopping abruptly in the middle of their bodies. 

Males are usually smaller with a less rounded lower-abdomen than females. The larger body causes their blue line’s shape to be bent if they are a female and straight if they are a male. 

There are other variations of Neon Tetras, including:

• Semi-albino 
• Golden
• Long-Finned 
• Diamond 
• Green 

Where are they located?

Neon tetras were discovered in 1934 in the Amazon Jungle. Most Neon Tetras in the aquarium trade are born in captivity these days. 

You can find wild Neon Tetras in rivers and streams of South America. They reside in cloudy water with dense vegetation and little sunlight. Their bright colors give them an advantage in locating their school. Their ability to dim their color also gives them better camouflage when predators are near. 

Setting up your Neon Tetras Tank 

Aquarium Size

Aquarium Size is highly dependent on the amount of Neon Tetras you would like to keep. Neon Tetras are low waste producers, and with regular water changes, nitrate production is manageable.

A minimum tank size for a school of four to five Neon Tetras will be ten gallons. I would suggest trying to keep about two gallons available per fish, although this number can be stretched slightly. As always, consider the waste products of other tank mates before ultimately deciding on how many Neon Tetras are appropriate in your aquarium. 

Type of Substrate

Neon Tetras do not have particular needs for their aquarium’s substrate. If you are planting your tank, use a substrate that will help promote plant growth. If you are not using live plants, small rocks are similar to their substrate found in rivers and streams. 

Do stray from crushed coral or any substrates that might accidentally raise pH; Neon Tetras require moderately acidic soft water. Avoid clay ball substrates that are marketed as being good for plants, these will also raise the soil pH. 

Filtration

Neon Tetras do not require heavy filtration. A low flow filter will work fine. Consider a GPH (gallons per hour) flow of about four times the size of your tank. 

Their oxygen and waste needs are relatively low, and you can even consider just working with a sponge filter (or two) attached to an air pump. Ensure that you clean out the sponge filter about once a month with RO water and do not introduce any cleaning chemicals. If you notice your sponge filter has gotten incredibly filthy, consider changing out the filter entirely. 

Lighting

Neon Tetras prefer low light environments since they replicate their natural habitat. To replicate this soft lighting, consider about two watts per gallon. Their lighting needs can be accomplished with fluorescent lighting, but if you are growing plants and would like LED lights, consider getting a lower wattage and having plants that sprout at the top and block light from reaching your Neon Tetras. 

Plants and Decorations

Neon Tetras do not have any specific requirements for plants or decorations. Keeping an environment similar to that of their natural habitat is ideal. 

Plants do help maintain ideal water quality and create an appealing natural environment for your Neon Tetra. Consider plants that require low or mid-level lighting since high-level lighting stresses out Neon Tetras. On a similar note, plants that shoot up and offer shade are ideal for creating an inviting environment. 

Any type of aquarium-safe decoration is acceptable. Large driftwood pieces are ideal because they soften the water and help to lower the pH. Neon Tetras like to feel hidden and will enjoy having tannins in their tank from uncured driftwood. If you do not want the appearance of tannins (tea-colored aquarium water) consider buying pieces that are already cured or curing the driftwood before adding them to your tank. 

Ideal Tankmates

Neon Tetras are relatively passive, but they may nip at each other when displaying aggressive behaviors. Make sure to keep a BARE MINIMUM of three tetras in your school. The more Neon Tetras available in your school, the more likely they will not display aggressive qualities. 

Do not keep an aggressive fish with Neon Tetras. Due to their small size, they are bite-size for some fish and an easier target for bullying. 

Ideal tankmates include: 

• Dwarf Gouramis
• Smaller or similar-sized Tetras
• Cory Catfish
• Otocinclus 
• Rasboras
• Non-aggressive Loach species
• Clown or Bristlenose Plecos
• Platies
• Guppies
• Snails

Tank Environment for Neon Tetras 

Water Temperature

Neon Tetras have a broad tolerance for temperature. 70 degrees to 81 degrees Fahrenheit will work, although they prefer warmer water. 

If trying to mate Neon Tetras, try to raise or lower the temperature to precisely 75 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Water Flow

Neon Tetras are not picky about water flow. Try to get a filter that offers a flow gallon per hour flow four times the tank’s size. Otherwise, get an air pump with an appropriately sized sponge filter to provide oxygen. 

Hardness Levels & pH

Neon Tetras prefer stable water conditions. The pH should remain below 7.0 and above 6.0. If you have issues maintaining a lower pH, consider adding aquarium remedies such as pH Down until you can find out a more permanent way to lower the pH. Wood pieces added to the aquarium will assist with lowering pH. 

Soft water is necessary for this species and General Hardness should be kept below 10 dGH (general hardness). I would suggest monitoring this once a week or every other week once established. Wood pieces for the aquarium will help soften the water and lower general hardness. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

Ideally, use RO (reverse osmosis) or DI (deionized) water for your aquarium. No matter your water source, chances are there are potential issues with the water quality. 

You can either buy RO water or purchase the components to create your own RO water. Keeping an RO unit does require extra space as well as routine maintenance. It is worth getting your own unit if you would like to keep multiple aquariums or plan on housing a larger tank. 

If you want to just use tap water, be sure to treat your water with a tap water conditioner or a chlorine chloramine remover during each water change. The build-up of chlorine and chloramines are fatal to fish if left unchecked. If chlorine or chloramine is in your tank, usually white spots appear on your fish, or they may experience lethargy. If you think this may be the case, buy a test kit right away. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

The nitrogen cycle is one of the essential parts of fishkeeping. Neon Tetras are hardy but will not tolerate an uncycled tank. Make sure your tank has been fully cycled before introducing your fish. 

To ensure a proper cycle is maintained, make sure to:

1. Thoroughly cycle your tank initially.
2. Add fish slowly
3. Watch out for surprise mini-cycles after the initial tank cycle. 

Ideal parameters or ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are: 

• Ammonia: 0ppm
• Nitrite: 0ppm
• Nitrate: less than 20ppm

After the tank is set up, perform 25% water changes once a week for the tank. When performing them, try to keep parameters as close to the tank’s water as possible. DO NOT perform water changes greater than 25% at one time. 

The best way to prevent cycling issues is to check the water quality numbers at least once a week, perform the weekly water changes, and be careful not to overfeed your fish. 

Breeding

Breeding Neon Tetras is difficult for beginners. If you choose to try to breed them, separate one male and one female from the group in an established breeder tank. The breeder tank does not have to be large and should have a sponge filter to prevent fry loss. 

Males are thinner and have a straight blue stripe, while females are rounded with a bent blue line. Once you have selected your male and female, make sure to create their ideal water parameters. Neon Tetras will breed when the pH is 5.0-6.0, and the temperature remains at 75 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Feed both fish a protein-rich diet while waiting on eggs. Neon Tetras are egg scatterers and prefer to leave them in an area they could hide, such as Java Moss. Neon Tetras are known to eat their own young so remove the parents as soon as possible. The eggs will be transparent and adhesive. 

Low lighting to no lighting is ideal for the fry. The female will lay about 100 eggs, but only around a third will be viable. All Neon Tetras require tank lids, but young Neon Tetras are known jumpers, so make sure to keep a lid on their breeder tank. 

The eggs will hatch after 30 hours and the babies will live off of the nutrition from their egg sacs for 2-3 days. Keep the lights off and feed the fry small foods such as rotifers, egg yolk, or micropellets. DO NOT introduce them to the school until they are too large to be eaten. Neon Tetra fry receive no parental care. 

Neon Tetra Disease

A parasitic Protozoan introduces Neon Tetra disease. The parasite is brought in through the intestine and eats its way out of the abdomen through the Tetra’s muscle. Little is known about the parasite, and there are no known cures. 

If only one or a couple of fish appear to have, symptoms remove them immediately and humanely euthanize them. Symptoms for Neon Tetra Disease include

• Lack of coordination
• White patches
• Spinal deformities
• Color Loss
• Bottom-Dwelling
• Cysts in the stomach

Since there is no cure, the best solution is prevention. Quarantine all new fish before introducing them to your tank and maintain a healthy environment and water quality. 

Final Word

Neon Tetras are fun and dynamic schooling fish that add a gorgeous burst of color to your aquarium. 

Whether you are an expert fish keeper or a new aquarist, I hope you find this guide helpful for keeping happy and healthy Neon Tetras!

The post Neon Tetra Fish: Easy Care Guide for these Tropical Stunners appeared first on aquaticly.com.

They’re easy to care for too, which makes them excellent pets for the new or practiced aquarist. 

You can find them in the wild from the Southeast United States to the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. Different Molly Fish species live in various salinities, including freshwater, brackish water, and on rare occasions, saltwater.

They have the unique ability to adjust to higher salinities, although almost all in the aquarium trade prefer saltwater. 

All About Molly Fish

Behavior & Temperament

They’re generally nonaggressive and most fish stores will have them labeled as such. However, I have seen Molly Fish pick on a Platy or Guppy occasionally.

When keeping a shoal of Mollies, make sure to have a minimum of three fish: two females and a male. Females are distinguishable by their rounded anal fin and large round middle body. Males have more narrow bodies and large sweeping anal fins. 

Males are more aggressive, particularly towards females, so keeping multiple females discourages them from bullying one. An ideal number of mollies would be five but would require a larger sized aquarium. 

Mollies do not swim at the top or bottom but prefer to school in the middle of the tank. Mollies will school, but not as often as other schooling fish. 

Diet

Mollies are omnivores, meaning they eat both meat and plants. Like most animals feeding a varied diet will increase the lifespan of your fish. In their natural habitat, Molly Fish are more likely to eat plants but they’re not picky eaters. Ideal foods include:

• Flakes
• Bloodworms
• Micropellets
• Algae Wafers
• Spirulina
• Daphnia
• Blanched Veggies (Spinach)

Try to keep the majority of their diet as plants.

Mollies can be fed up to twice a day and should not take longer than three minutes to eat their food. New fishkeepers tend to be surprised by the small amount of food needed to feed their fish. They are susceptible to bloat, though, so overfeeding can be deadly in this species of fish. 

Be careful not to overfeed and check for excess nitrates as a sign of an overindulgent diet. 

How long do they live?

With proper care, Mollies live on average five years. 

Appearance

Molly Fish are beautiful and come in a wide range of colors and patterns. Female Mollies are traditionally larger and can reach 4.5 inches, males usually only reach 3.5 inches. I have seen specimens as large as 5 inches, though it isn’t common.

Mollies have a wide variety of appearances. Most have a triangular-shaped head with a slim or rounded body and a small rounded caudal tail. Due to this species being “live-bearers,” the differences between a male and female are pronounced. 

• Male Mollies have a sharp thin anal fin, females have a rounded anal fin. 
• Females have a much more rounded stomach, while the male has a slimmer shape. 
• Male Sailfin Mollies have a sizable (and spectacular) fin on top of their head, hence their name.

Female mollies have a spot above their anal fin called a grandid spot. This dark spot is due to the stretching caused by pregnancy, the whole area above their anal fin is typically darkened if the female has had babies before. 

Mollies have many different species, all with unique looks; some “common” Molly Fish include

• Short-finned Molly
• White Molly
• Black Velvet Molly 
• Balloon Molly
• Dalmation Molly
• Lyretail Molly
• Common Molly
• Golden Molly

Setting up your Molly Fish Tank 

Aquarium Size

Technically, you can keep Molly Fish in a ten-gallon aquarium, although I would suggest a minimum of 20 gallons.

If you begin to have issues with aggressive Mollies, consider the size of your aquarium. If your Mollies are around four inches and have five or more other fish in the tank, they are more likely to be stressed and exhibit aggressive behavior. 

Type of Substrate

Mollies do not have a particular need when it comes to the substrate. If you would like to plant the tank, consider substrate preferable for planting your tank, such as sand or a substrate that offers your plants nutrition. Your Molly will rarely go to the bottom of the tank and should not have contact with your substrate. 

Filtration

Mollies do not require heavy filtration. Their oxygen needs are on the lower end, despite their near-constant movement. Consider live plants to help aid oxygen, and either a hang over the back filter to accommodate the size of your aquarium or a sponge filter set up with an air pump. 

Make sure to clean out the filtration about once a month; most filtration pads, sponges, etc., suggest every three to six weeks. Use your better judgment. Do not allow the filtration to get gross, but do not feel like you need to replace a perfectly clean filter pad. 

When cleaning a sponge, be careful not to clean it with chemicals; you can soak in algae fix or simply give the sponge a decent rinse with water treated for chlorine and chloramines. Do not wash your filter and do a water change on the same day. When you do this, you risk hurting an established biological filter, especially for smaller aquariums. 

Lighting

Mollies have no specific needs when it comes to lighting. Like most freshwater tanks, your water quality and quality of life of your fish will improve with the addition of plants. If you plan to plant your tank, look for plant-specific lighting that offers a spectrum of colors needed for better plant growth. 

If you feel the lighting is too intense, add plants such as hornwort or pennywort to help shade the rest of the tank. This will give you the bonus of less stressed fish and a reduction in algae growth. 

Plants and Decorations

Like most fish species, Molly Fish prefer small caves and rock pieces, similar to arrangements found in their natural habitat. The more small caves and “hiding” areas you have for your Mollies, the more relaxed your fish will be. 

When choosing different decorations, be wary of wood pieces. Although not bad for the tank inherently, tannins tend to soften the water and Molly Fish prefer hard water. If you decide to get a wood piece, make sure to rinse well and cure the wood to avoid leeching tannins. If you want to skip this process altogether, buy fake wood pieces for your aquarium. 

Plants are an excellent addition to most freshwater aquariums. Plants reduce nitrates and phosphates in your water and help to create more oxygen. Plants not only improve the water quality but will help to control algae growth in your aquarium. 

Plants that shoot up, such as pennywort or lilies, work well to help shade your aquarium and create a more natural environment for your fish. Low-growing plants are ideal as well. If you get plants that cover more of the middle to the tank, just make sure you still have plenty of room for your Molly Fish to swim around comfortably. 

Any other common aquarium decorations will likely be safe. When choosing decorations, choose aquarium-safe decorations, or make sure to read over all the plastics and dyes in your decorations to see if they are aquarium safe. 

Ideal Tankmates

Although I have seen Molly Fish nipping other fish, they are listed as a non-aggressive species. If you have a Sailfin Molly species, be extra careful to watch for tankmates nipping on fins due to their sensitivity. 

Ideal tankmates include: 

• Dwarf Gouramis
• Smaller or similar-sized Tetras
• Cory Catfish
• Otocinclus 
• Rasboras
• Non-aggressive Loach species
• Swordtails
• Platies
• Guppies
• Minnowfish
• Snails

Tank Environment for Molly Fish 

Water Temperature

Mollies do best at a temperature from 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. They will tolerate warmer and colder waters but they’re healthiest in this range. 

Water Flow

Molly Fish do not require a high water flow. If you have a smaller tank and would not like to keep an over the back filter, feel free to use a simple sponge filter or two attached to the air pump. 

Hardness Levels & pH

Like most fish, Mollies prefer a stable pH. Although they can tolerate a high pH range, if the pH goes up or down too quickly, the fish are more susceptible to disease or can even die from shock. 

An ideal pH for Molly Fish is between 6.7 to 8.5, a relatively high pH for a freshwater fish. If you have issues keeping your pH high, carefully add pH Up or an equivalent from a pet store to your water. 

These fish are used to hard water. Their hardness should be between 15-30 dGH; this is easy to keep up with using treated tap water since tap water is usually harder. If you’re still having trouble raising your hardness, you can add limestone or crushed coral to your aquarium. Do this very slowly to be careful not to elevate the pH too quickly. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

When you use RO (reverse osmosis) or DI (deionized) water, you are less likely to run into contaminants or chlorine/chloramines. Chlorine is toxic to fish when introduced into their aquarium water. It’s best to test regularly for chlorine or chloramines, but if your fish is lethargic or has white spots, you can test for chlorine in your water supply. 

The easiest way to treat for chlorine in your aquarium water is to use a good water conditioner. Make sure to use the conditioner each time you do a water change to prevent introducing chlorine to your water supply. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

Very few fish will tolerate any amounts of ammonia or nitrite. Even the fish species that CAN tolerate them do not survive for long and are more prone to ailments. That’s why it’s so essential to cycle an aquarium before the introduction of fish. 

To start a cycle, use aquarium starter bacteria or liquid ammonia. Decide which one is best for you, and adequately dose your aquarium before introducing fish. The tank should be ready to go in all other ways, including lights, substrate, filtrations, etc.

Most bottles will say fish are safe to add after 24 hours. This is an optimistic assumption. It is safer to add fish after tracking with water quality tests that both ammonia and nitrite have previously been detected but are no longer present. 

If you decide to add your Molly Fish and notice an addition of ammonia or nitrite in your water quality, add more liquid bacteria and do a small water change (less than 25%). 

To ensure a proper cycle is maintained, make sure to:

1. Add fish slowly (do not add the full capacity of fish to your tank all at once). 
2. Watch water quality and act accordingly.
3. Perform weekly water changes, and be careful not to clean filters the same day you perform water changes. Ideally, water changes are not over 25% of the tank water unless in severe circumstances. 
4. Do not overfeed your fish or leave uneaten food in your aquarium. 

Ideal parameters or ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are: 

• Ammonia: 0ppm
• Nitrite: 0ppm
• Nitrate: less than 20ppm

Breeding

Molly Fish are popular due to their fun colors and patterns and their tendency to reproduce. They’re known as live-bearers, meaning unlike most fish, they birth live-young rather than eggs. 

They breed quickly, given that water conditions are ideal, and the temperature is warmer (78 degrees or so, but not higher). Make sure, as stated earlier, that there are more females kept than males, so the males do not harass one female and stress her out. 

Males have a courting behavior but will also “sneak attack” females to copulate. If you notice copulation behavior and/or one of your females gets a bit larger, there’s a good chance you’ll have some babies in your tank soon. You can move mom to a breeder net or breeder tank to prevent the babies from being eaten by their parents once they’re born. If not, there’s a good chance you’ll lose many or all of them. 

The breeder tank does not need elaborate accommodations but ideally would include a sponge filter instead of a traditional filter that might trap fry. 

On average, 35-45 days after copulation, the mother will have up to 100 fry. The fry will look like smaller versions of their parents. You can feed them small pellets, broken pieces, or powdered spirulina. 

The mother does not care for her young; the fry can be introduced to the main aquarium when they are too large to eat. 

Interestingly enough, mother fish and the fry possibly have a symbiotic relationship where there is an exchange of fluids between the fry and the mom. This is not well understood and is mainly speculative. 

Molly Disease

Molly Disease is also known as livebearer disease or shimmies. Although not a disease per se, this ailment causes the fish to wiggle or swim erratically. The fish acts this way as a reaction to stress. To improve their condition, check your water quality and address any issues. If you do not recognize any problems with the water quality parameters, consider their tankmates or other environmental conditions as possible stressors for your fish. 

Additional Disease

Ich

Ich is a common freshwater parasite that appears when fish are stressed. Ich will display as white spots covering the body of your fish, particularly eyes and gills. If you recognize ich on one of your fish, remove them and place them in a quarantine aquarium immediately. 

There are many different methods for curing ich. If only one fish displays ich, observe the others and monitor the water quality for any issues. Often ich presents itself when there are water quality issues, or a fish is particularly stressed. 

Any parasite remover or herbtana can help treat the parasite. Dose appropriately and offer plenty of oxygen. Many aquarists suggest saltwater baths, but I disagree due to the additional stress undergone by the fish. 

Velvet

Velvet is similar to ich. It is a parasite that can affect most fish types. Fortunately, many fish have a natural immunity to it. Velvet will look similar to ich but it has a golden sheen to the dots found around their body. 

Remove any infected fish to a quarantine aquarium. Raise the temperature a couple of degrees and add aquarium salt. Make sure no carbon or plants are present. Only put on lights for a couple of hours every day and use a copper treatment such as copper sulfate. Dose appropriately according to the instructions on your bottle. Copper treatments are ordinarily available at fish stores or online. 

Certain fish die when they come in contact with copper. Be careful to check that copper treatments are safe if there are other fish or invertebrates are in your aquarium. Most inverts (like shrimp) will die if their water is treated with copper. 

Bloat

There are a couple of different types of bloat. The one I’ve seen most commonly in Mollies involves an inability to control their swimming or a sort of trouble staying either up or down in the tank. A swollen belly usually accompanies this. There are many possible reasons for this behavior. 

Treat the tank for bacterial and fungal infections. You can typically alternate these medications every other day. Do not offer any food to your fish for three days and then offer one unshelled pea at the end of the third day. 

Sometimes bloat is a side-effect of overeating. It might seem like a bad idea to stop feeding your fish, but fish can go much longer than three days without food. 

Bloat is often hard to treat and often results in the loss of your fish. 

Final Word

So, now you should know everything you need to know to properly care for your Molly fish. Which is a good thing, because a happy and healthy tank of Mollies is a true delight. Plus, you get to see babies be born and grow up. 

I hope you’ve found this care guide helpful! Good luck and happy fishkeeping.

The post Molly Fish Care: Complete Guide to Keeping all Types of Mollies appeared first on aquaticly.com.

Read along as I cover the ins-and-outs of Cherry Shrimp care!

All About Cherry Shrimp

Cherry Shrimp are dwarf shrimp that hail from ponds and lakes in Tawain, China, and Vietnam. These shrimp live roughly one to two years, which is a relatively short lifespan for an aquarium inhabitant. However, they make up for this by starting to reproduce at around 4-6 months of age. Therefore, you can create colonies that continuously replenish themselves. 

At maturity, Cherry Shrimp reach a length of 1.5 inches, with females being larger than their male counterparts. 

Behavior 

Cherry Shrimp are remarkably docile. They prefer to be kept in groups and can even be observed playing together from time to time. They spend almost every second of their day grazing, so they do best in heavily planted tanks. I own several Cherry Shrimp and regularly observe them grazing on plants, the glass, and the substrate. For this reason, they make an excellent clean-up crew and can really work wonders for tank cleanliness when kept in large groups. 

I suggest keeping more females than males if it all possible and leaving some room for future offspring. Cherry Shrimp have a tiny bioload, though, meaning they do not produce much waste. You can keep anywhere from 2-5 of them per gallon of water. Which is a good thing, because some colonies can become quite productive when it comes to reproducing.

Diet

Cherry Shrimp are not picky eaters and they can get most of their nutrition from grazing plants. However, they are omnivores and eat a wide variety of foods. 

Specialty pellets made for shrimp offer specially tailored nutrition. And as disturbing as it might sound, your shrimp will also eat pellets made out of shrimp. 

They’re scavengers in nature and will nibble on almost anything left in their tank. But you should be careful not to overfeed your shrimp tank. You can feed your shrimp as little as twice a week since they also eat algae and plant matter. 

If you would like to feed your shrimp vegetables, make sure you do not overfeed or leave uneaten food in your tank. 

Vegetables you can feed your Cherry Shrimp include:

• Spinach
• Carrots
• Lettuce
• Cucumber
• Zucchini
• Cabbage
• Cucumber

All vegetables must be cleaned, peeled, and blanched before being served to your Shrimp. This helps to minimize the chances of introducing pesticides to your tank. Blanching allows your vegetables to retain their nutrients while making the vegetables soft for your shrimp. 

Breeding

Reproductive cycles for Cherry Shrimp will take place with or without the help of the aquarist. 

If you have different types of Neocardinias in your tank, you will likely get wild-type or brown baby shrimp. If your tank only houses red Cherry Shrimp, the offspring should look similar to their parents. 

Reproduction usually takes place 3-6 months after introducing the shrimp, although it can take place earlier. 

To speed up breeding, raise the temperature to at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit to mimic Summer temperatures. Make sure there is plenty of plants in the tank to help the shrimp feel comfortable. 

Female shrimp are larger with a bigger abdomen, while the males appear more streamlined. 

The female Cherry Shrimp will carry the eggs underneath her tail and oxygenate them by fanning them. Thirty days after the appearance of eggs, you should see tiny shrimp show up in your tank. 

The mother will, on average, have 20-30 baby shrimp at a time, keep in mind not all of these shrimp will survive. You should notice a drop in new shrimp after the tank becomes overcrowded. But you still may need a plan of action for when there are too many shrimp in your tank. 

Be careful with baby Cherry Shrimp. Newly hatched shrimp can quickly be sucked into filters or eaten by fish in the tank. Sponge filters are popular with shrimp keepers because they won’t suck up these babies.

The newly hatched shrimp will eat similarly to their parents. You should see them grazing frequently and introduce small amounts of micro wafers and shrimp food powder to your tank to supplement their diets. 

Special Care

Cherry shrimp are hardy but they do have some special needs. 

Shrimp grow by shedding their exoskeleton. Often the shrimp become still or lethargic when they are about to shed. When they’re ready, they’ll explode from their old shell with a couple of quick movements. Most times you won’t see it happen, you’ll just see the sheds in your tank. Leave these old exoskeletons in your tank. Shrimp often eat their exoskeleton for the nutritional value. 

One of the common causes of death with Cherry Shrimp is a failed molt. They can become trapped in their old shells if they don’t soften properly. This is generally caused by having inappropriate General Hardness (GH) or Carbonate Hardness (KH). So make sure your water parameters are within proper specs to avoid unnecessary deaths when your shrimp are molting.

A telltale sign of a failed molt is a white ring around the middle of your shrimp. Aptly named, the “white ring of death” occurs when the old exoskeleton bursts behind the neck during molting. This is generally a dead giveaway that something is wrong with your water parameters. 

Additionally, if you have fish tankmates that require a copper treatment, remove the fish before treating them. Shrimp will die when exposed to copper. As a rule of thumb, be careful when medicating a shrimp tank; always check to make sure the medication is safe for invertebrates.

Cherry Shrimp Grades

Not all Cherry Shrimp are created equal. Often, Cherry Shrimp found in pet stores will not have a grade on their stock, but for advanced hobbyists or breeders, it may be important to know the grade of your Cherry Shrimp. 

The grade of your Cherry Shrimp is primarily dependent on the intensity of the red color and the shrimp’s opaqueness. 

The grades for shrimp from lowest to highest grade are as follows. 

• Cherry Grade- Normally, Cherry Grade shrimp are a light shade of pink and have translucent parts of their body. Cherry grade shrimp are the cheapest Cherry Shrimp on the market. 
• Sakura Grade- Sakura Grades are a darker red but still translucent in color. 
• High Sakura Grade- High Sakura Grade shrimp is less translucent and has a darker color than Sakura Grade Shrimp. 
• Fire Red Grade- Fire Red Grade is opaque with a deeper red, even on their legs. 
• Painted Fire Red Grade- Painted Fire Red Grade shrimp contain no translucence and are a deep red. 
• Bloody Mary Grade- Bloody Mary shrimp are considered the top grade of Cherry Shrimp. Bloody Mary shrimp are opaque with a very deep red, more similar to the color maroon. 

Setting up your Cherry Shrimp Tank 

Aquarium Size

The minimum aquarium size for a Cherry Shrimp tank is 5 gallons. Cherry Shrimp have a very small bioload; you can keep 2-5 Cherry Shrimp per gallon so that you can have a decent-sized colony in a reasonably small tank. 

Type of Substrate

I would highly recommend using a substrate for planted tanks. Without a heavily planted tank, your shrimp will not only be stressed but are less likely to live as long or be as active as you might prefer. 

Porous clay substrate works well for planted tanks and holds onto bacteria wonderfully. The best substrates will advertise the ability to lower pH, creating ideal conditions for your tank with little effort. 

Filtration

Low flow filters are ideal for a shrimp tank. The plants help oxygenate the water, and plant debris clogs the filtration. 

Special overhang filters can be purchased to prevent shrimp from getting sucked into the filter. However, be warned. Many of these specialized “shrimp-friendly filters” may still be able to suck up smaller shrimp.

Another option is to have a sponge filter hooked onto an air pump. I use a sponge filter in my shrimp tank and have personally had no issues. Consider the size of your sponge filter and air pump based on the size of your aquarium. 

Lighting

The key to lighting for a Cherry Shrimp tank is to balance the comfort of your shrimp and the lighting needs for your plants. 

Your plants will prefer extra light with a spectrum of colors. On the other hand, shrimp feel more comfortable when hiding and may become stressed with too much light. 

However, if you have plenty of hiding spots, your shrimp will be able to avoid the direct light in the tank. Lights should only be left on for eight hours a day. 

If you notice your shrimp hiding a lot or an excess amount of algae, consider lowering your light’s time or intensity. 

Plants and Decorations

Cherry Shrimp need heavily planted tanks to feel comfortable in their enclosures. They will graze on the plants and use them as part of their diet; not to worry, they will not destroy any of your plants. 

Driftwood, cholla wood, and Mopani wood are excellent additions to the tank. Rocks can help create dimension and contrast to the tank. Artificial decorations can be used in your aquarium, as long as they’re used in conjunction with a hefty amount of live plants. 

If you use driftwood, make sure to cure the driftwood before to prevent tannins. If not, the tannins will turn the water into a sweet tea brown color. If you don’t mind the look, the tannins will not harm the shrimp. 

Some live plants that work well in Cherry Shrimp are

• Java Fern
• Java Moss
• Dwarf Hairgrass
• Guppy Grass
• Anubis
• Water Wisteria
• Dwarf Lilies
• Water Lettuce
• Pennywort
• Hornwort
• Duckweed
• Christmas Moss

Many other species of plants are safe for your aquarium. Make sure to research ideal water conditions and any possible issues with your freshwater plant. 

When adding freshwater plants beware of pests, such as snails, being introduced to your tank. You can either quarantine your plants or look for plants that have already been quarantined or listed as pest-free. 

Tankmates

Cherry Shrimp do best in a single-species tank. If you would like to add other species of dwarf shrimp, they will coexist peacefully, but their offspring will be a brown wild-type instead of a red Cherry Shrimp. 

Snails also make excellent additions to your tank if you need help with algae control. 

If you would like to add fish to your aquarium, these fish are appropriate choices. 

• Cory Catfish (particularly Pygmy Corydoras)
• Otocinclus
• Plecos (smaller species)
• Small nonaggressive tetras
• Dwarf Gouramis

Other options might work for Cherry Shrimp, for example, guppies. Different combinations are very hit or miss depending on the shrimp’s size, the availability for hiding, and the fish’s temperament. Bettas SOMETIMES work. It all depends on the personality of the fish.

Shrimp Salt

Shrimp Salt is a product used to help maintain water quality, ideally for dwarf species of shrimp. The Shrimp Salt helps to maintain an alkaline or neutral pH. It also contains minerals and additional nutrition for the shrimp and helps create better carbonate and total hardness. 

Shrimp Salt helps to provide a better environment for your shrimp, which leads to more vibrant coloring and promotes reproduction. 

This salt works best with RO water. If you are using tap water with a water conditioner, you can still use the shrimp salt but be prepared to adjust the water hardness or pH. 

Tank Environment for Cherry Shrimp

Water Temperature

Cherry shrimp will tolerate a wide range of temperatures. Cherry shrimp will be okay in temperatures from 57-84 degrees Fahrenheit. Although, the best temperature for Cherry Shrimp is 77-81 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher temperatures also assist in breeding activity. 

Water Flow

Cherry Shrimp do not use much oxygen and do not require a heavy water flow. Consider keeping a low water flow to avoid debilitating your shrimp. 

pH, Acidity & Alkalinity Levels

The pH should be between 6.5-8.0. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

Cherry Shrimp are sensitive to both Chlorine and Chloramines. Even trace amounts can be toxic to your Cherry Shrimp. If you are suspicious that you have either in your water supply, you can acquire testing kits to check for sure.

A water conditioner will remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

Cherry Shrimp are highly sensitive to Ammonia and Nitrite. Nitrate levels should stay under 20ppm, which should not be difficult to do with a Cherry Shrimp aquarium. Nitrates do not build up quickly in a shrimp tank due to their low bioload and the number of plants present in the aquarium. 

If either nitrite or ammonia shows up in your tank, do a 25% water change and add a bacteria starter. 

Hardness

Total Hardness ranges should be between 6.0-8.0. 

Common Challenges with Cherry Shrimp Diseases and Treatments

Most diseases in Cherry Shrimp tanks are preventable. To create an ideal environment for your shrimp, pay close attention to your water quality parameters. Ammonia, Nitrite, Hardness, or improper pH can cause unnecessary stress on your shrimp and leave them vulnerable to disease. 

Make sure to perform regular water changes, and check your water quality often. Fix any issues immediately, and you’re less likely to run into these common diseases. 

Vorticella

Vorticella will appear as a puffy white fungus on the rostrum of your shrimp. This protozoan is hosted by driftwood, plants, other animals, etc. 

Saltwater baths can be useful in removing Vorticella. Mix one cup of RO water with one tablespoon of aquarium salt. Keep the shrimp in the mixture for approximately one minute. You can repeat the procedure, although I do not suggest repeating it the same day, due to the stress caused by salt baths. 

You can find parasitic treatments at your local pet store. When picking out a medicine, be careful to check that the medication is safe for both plants and invertebrates. Avoid any treatment with copper. 

Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are more apparent in lower grade or translucent shrimp. The inside organs will change colors, indicating a bacterial infection. The carapace or exterior color of the shrimp might also vary in color. 

Shrimp are notoriously tricky in treating bacterial infections. You can either do large water changes every other day or purchase a UV light to save the shrimp. 

Fungal Infections

Fungal infections are not very common in shrimp tanks. If you notice large cotton looking attached to a body part of your shrimp that is not the rostrum, consider trying antifungals.

When getting an antifungal from the pet store, make sure it is safe for both invertebrates and plants. And once again, make sure to check that the medicine does not contain copper. 

Leeches

Leeches can be found around the head of your Cherry Shrimp. They are white and visible to the naked eye. 

An anti-parasite medication can help alleviate the leeches. When picking anti-parasite medicines, make sure it is safe for invertebrates and plants. 

Also, check to see that the treatment is free of copper. 

Saltwater baths can be useful as well. Mix one cup of RO water with one tablespoon of aquarium salt. Leave the shrimp in the bath for one minute. 

You can repeat the procedure, but space them out. Saltwater baths are stressful on the shrimp. 

Final Word

Cherry Shrimp make for excellent aquarium inhabitants. Their colors and behavior make them fascinating to watch for countless hours. 

Whether you are a beginner or an advanced aquarist, consider adding a few (or a few dozen) of these beauties to your collection

Thanks for reading and good luck with your shrimp-keeping endeavors!

Read More Care Guides:

• African Cichlids
• Oscar Fish
• Guppy Care Guide

The post Cherry Shrimp Care Guide: Tank Setup, Grading, and Common Diseases appeared first on aquaticly.com.

Keep in mind, like any fish, African Cichlids have their own unique sets of issues, so read along and learn everything you need to know about setting up your own African Cichlid tank. 

All About African Cichlids

Behavior & Temperament

In the fish keeping world, there are three types of fish temperaments: peaceful, semi-aggressive, and aggressive. African Cichlids tend to range from semi-aggressive to aggressive. 

However, their aggressive nature does not necessarily mean that your African Cichlid needs to be alone. African Cichlids can have many tankmates, given enough room. 

There are two primary types of Cichlids, African Cichlids, and New World/South American Cichlids. Both are aggressive and often do not mix well together. They are usually separated at fish stores. Keep in mind that just because they look similar and are both Cichlids, it does not mean they will mix well. 

African Cichlids have the best chance of success with other African Cichlids. Occasionally, a particularly aggressive African Cichlid will refuse to accommodate tankmates. It’s best to remove this fish as soon as you recognize the problem. 

Some aquarists choose to keep one African Cichlid species to avoid fighting; this is a reasonable precaution, although hardly necessary. With enough room and areas for hiding, African Cichlids can do well with different African Cichlid species. 

When it comes to keeping them with other non-Cichlid species of fish, know that you are limited in your options. Tankmates swimming in the open are likely to be bullied or possibly eaten. It’s possible to have success with larger types of tetras, but there is always risk involved. 

An ideal tankmate that is not in the African Cichlid family is a bottom-dwelling fish; this includes plecostomus, loaches, and possibly freshwater sharks. 

When adding tankmates, keep water quality in mind. Cichlids have a tolerance for high nitrates, because of the heavy amount of waste that they produce. A tankmate that requires ideal water quality conditions will not make for good tankmates. 

Diet

Specific African Cichlid species have different dietary needs, so do additional research on your varieties for the best chance of longevity and optimal health. They’re usually omnivores, with more carnivorous tendencies overall.

A varied diet offers optimal nutrition. Shrimp pellets or cichlid pellets are excellent food choices for most varieties. If your Cichlid hangs around the bottom of the aquarium, try offering shrimp wafers or algae wafers. From personal experience, certain Cichlids enjoy algae wafers more than others. It seems to boil down to an individual’s preference. 

Cichlids enjoy vegetables on occasion and can eat lettuce, broccoli, nori, and peas. As I mentioned earlier, some Cichlids seem to enjoy vegetables more than others!

For frozen foods, consider frozen vegetables as well as bloodworms and brine shrimp. These foods should be fed only occasionally due to the likelihood of excess food being left in the substrate, causing water quality issues. 

Live food is also an option for African Cichlids, including minnows and insects. Proceed with caution, though. Feeder fish often carry transmittable diseases. If you would still like to feed live fish, consider quarantining feeder fish before giving them to your African Cichlids. 

How long do they live?

It depends on the individual species and the level of care. Most African Cichlids live an average of eight years, but some species can live upwards of 15 years. 

Different Types of African Cichlids

Malawi Cichlid

This species comes from Lake Malawi in Malawi, a country in Southeast Africa. This lake is home to over 850 different species of Cichlids and counting. The huge diversity of Cichlids found in this lake is due to females’ selective nature.

The larger, brighter, more colorful males are allowed to reproduce, leading to various Cichlids species in a vibrant variance of colors and characteristics. 

Malawi Peacock Cichlid

Peacock Cichlids are common among fishkeeping enthusiasts, often coming in red and blue variations. Peacock Cichlids are known for their iridescent color. They’re originally from Lake Malawi and prefer sandy and rocky areas.

Setting up rocky shelves and caves in your aquarium will not only help them feel more comfortable but it will help break up any aggressive behaviors. 

Malawi Zebra Cichlid

Zebra Cichlids are similar to Peacock Cichlids, however they have a different color pattern. They come in red or blue colors with stripes along the sides of their bodies and bright dots on their caudal fin.

Hailing from Lake Malawi, they are commonly aggressive fish when not given proper room and decoration. Zebra Cichlids enjoy rocky shelves and caves in their aquarium to establish as territory. 

Tanganyika Cichlid

Lake Tanganyika is another large lake in Africa that is 420 miles long and four miles deep. An impressive lake, it also boasts a remarkable diversity of fish, including 250 species of Cichlids. Tanganyika Cichlids are often found at great depths compared to other varieties.

Overall, they’re less common in the pet trade. Similar to the Cichlids of Malawi, they prefer sandy bottoms and rocky shelves and caves to feel comfortable in their home aquarium. 

Tanganyika Goby Cichlid

Tanganyika Goby Cichlids are an ancient fish species with a humorous face.

They have elongated snouts with blue puckered lips that give them a somewhat goofy look. They are called “Goby” due to their lack of swim bladder, so you can find them hanging around the bottom of your tank. This Cichlid requires hard water and naturally lives in water with a pH of 9. 

Tanganyika Tropheus Cichlid

Treopheus Cichlids do best in same-species tanks due to their aggressive nature. The Tropheus Cichlid is usually dark with a strike of color across the body, with too many color variations to name.

Tropheus are particularly sensitive to water quality and develop bloat quickly. They do not tolerate massive water changes but can accept small water changes throughout the week and special attention to water parameters.

West African Cichlid

Typically a smaller species of Cichlid, these fish are rarely found in fishkeeping communities, with the exception of Kribensis. Kribensis only live an average of five years but are a much more peaceful African Cichlid.

They can be kept with other fish species, although they can be nippy. They are found in Niger Delta and enjoy cave areas. Their water quality parameters are more lenient than some of their counterparts. 

Setting up your Cichlids Fish Tank 

Aquarium Size

Aquarium size may range from 30 gallons to 100 gallons up. It’s highly dependent on the amount of livestock in the aquarium and the specific species found in the aquarium. For an average African Cichlid aquarium, 55-75 gallons is adequate. 

Cichlids are heavy waste producers, and larger aquariums allow more room for error when considering water quality. 

Another consideration is the maximum size of each individual. African Cichlid sizes vary significantly, between an average of four to ten inches at maturity. 

Researching water quality parameter strictness and mature size of the fish is essential when deciding on tank size. 

Type of Substrate

Siltier or fine substrate is ideal. A pound per gallon of water allows plenty of room for your African Cichlid to burrow while maintaining water conditions. A variety of substrates work. 

For higher pH, crushed coral helps to raise pH. Another great tool on the market is a specific African Cichlid substrate by Caribesea, which helps maintain water quality parameters for African Cichlid.

Filtration

Heavy filtration is necessary in any Cichlid tank. Overhead filters are adequate, but canister filters or sumps are excellent choices for filtration. Consider the load and size of your fish before committing to a filtration system. 

For example, if you have two young zebra cichlids in a 55-gallon tank, your filtration needs might not be the same as a 75-gallon tank with a variety of African Cichlids species. 

Keep in mind that even though these fish reside in lakes, they are used to a heavy flow rate. Consider a flow rate of 4-6 times the volume of your aquarium. 

For filter media, I would suggest carbon or GFO (granular ferrous oxide) in your aquarium. Carbon mixed with zeolite works well for new aquariums because it helps prevent mini-cycles or ammonia spikes. 

Consider adding lava rock or other porous rock to your filter or into the tank itself. These porous rocks will hold beneficial bacteria.

Make sure to check your water quality parameters regularly. Things go south quickly in a neglected Cichlid tank due to their heavy waste production.

Lighting

African Cichlids typically live in dark conditions and so they do well with dark tanks. Still, lighting is entirely up to preference. They’ll do well with a wide variety of lights as long as the lights are on a timer. Aim for around eight hours of light a day.

Newer lights, including fluorescents, are less likely to raise the temperature in your water. Fluorescents are also cheaper and offer less intense lighting. 

On the other hand, LEDs are more energy-efficient and, with multiple colors, will show off the colors of your fish quite nicely. 

If you decide to grow plants, I would suggest an LED light explicitly made for plants. The spectrum of colors displays the fish well and gives your plants the spectrum of colors they need to grow. 

Consider lights with nighttime features, or even additional features like thunderstorm settings. These are not only fun for the aquarist but also offer enrichment to your fish. 

Plants and Decorations

Unless you have a Cichlid particularly set on devouring your plants, you can have plants with your African Cichlid!

These plants need to be able to tolerate more alkaline water, as well as a little nipping. Here’s a list of plants that you can grow in your African Cichlid aquarium. 

• Anubius
• Java Fern
• Crinum
• Vallisneria
• Echinodorus
• Cryptocoryne

Cichlid decorations can vary. Large driftwood pieces make excellent focal pieces in the aquarium. Consider curing driftwood before adding it to your aquarium, unless you would like them to release tannins. Tannins will turn the water brown and lower the pH considerably.

To cure driftwood, either boil the piece everyday submerged in water until there is no longer a brown tint to the water or soak the driftwood in a fresh batch of water every day until the water is clear. Boiling is faster.

Cichlids enjoy caves and hiding places. Consider aquarium decorations that offer plenty of room to hide or arrange rocks to provide shelters and various swimming/hiding areas. 

Tank Environment for Cichlids 

Water Temperature

African Cichlids prefer warmer waters between 78 degrees Fahrenheit to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. 

In larger tanks, it’s easy to run into issues distributing heat across the tank. Use a submersible thermometer to check the temperature across the tank. If you have a hanging filter or a sump, consider keeping your heater there. Optimal placement will allow even heat distribution throughout the tank. 

Water Flow

African Cichlids might reside in lakes, but they are used to heavy water flow. Shoot for an hourly water turnover 4-6 times the volume of water in your aquarium. This information should be available on the packaging for your filter. 

African Cichlids require large amounts of oxygen and benefit from additional air pumps or wavemakers. 

In particular, if you notice your fish only hanging out near areas of heavy water flow, consider getting additional water flows into the low flow areas. 

pH, Acidity & Alkalinity Levels

The pH requirements for African Cichlids are different from most freshwater fish; they come from a very alkaline environment and prefer a pH between 7.5 to 8.5, depending on the specific species. They will tolerate a wide range of pH values but are most comfortable at higher numbers. 

To help maintain high pH in a freshwater aquarium, you can add crushed coral to the substrate whenever there is a dip in pH. There are also buffer products available that you can use to adjust and maintain pH in a Cichlid aquarium. 

Regular water changes and healthy air quality will also help maintain a higher pH. Keep in mind that sudden changes in pH are likely to shock your African Cichlid. Try to keep changes in pH at 0.3 or less at a time. They are far more likely to tolerate a low pH than a drastic change in pH. 

Consider using a buffer and keeping your KH or carbonate hardness between 160-320ppm to prevent large fluctuations in pH. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

Ideally, use RO (reverse osmosis) or DI (deionized) water for your aquarium. No matter your water source, chances are there are potential issues with the water quality. 

RO units can be bought online and set up in your house. They will require routine maintenance. If this is more than you are ready to take on, consider buying RO water from your local fish store. 

Water conditioners remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals from your water. Some water conditioners contain “extras” for species-specific tanks. 

When considering water conditioners that are particularly for Cichlids, examine the differences between the species-specific water conditioner and regular water conditioner. Often the species-specific water conditioner helps to replace trace minerals that are beneficial to that species. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

The nitrogen cycle is one of the most essential parts of fish keeping. In high waste producing fish species, such as African Cichlids, you are more likely to run into issues maintaining water quality parameters. 

To ensure a proper cycle is maintained, make sure to:

1. Thoroughly cycle your tank initially
2. Add fish slowly
3. Watch out for surprise mini-cycles after the initial tank cycle. 

Ideal parameters or ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are: 

• Ammonia: 0ppm
• Nitrite: 0ppm
• Nitrate: less than 20ppm

Keep in mind nitrates are harder to control in Cichlid aquariums. Consider adding a protein skimmer or nitrate-reducing foam to help maintain nitrate parameters. 

If your nitrates rise above 20ppm, add an additional water change into your weekly maintenance routine. Do not do water changes over 25% at a time, and try to space these water changes throughout the week to reduce stress on your African Cichlids. 

Common Challenges with Cichlids Diseases and Treatments

Bloat

The cause of bloat is either poor water quality or from a protozoan that lives in the intestines. Regardless, bloat is common in Malawi Cichlids. Symptoms to watch out for include:

• Swollen abdomens 
• Rapid breathing
• Loss of appetite

Left untreated, bloat is fatal. 

Treatment includes dosing Metronidazole and performing a massive water change. 

If you are successful with treatment, look carefully into your water quality parameters. Often when water quality goes downhill, the disease becomes more prevalent. 

Freshwater Ich

Ich is one of the most feared words in the aquarium world. Freshwater Ich is available in most water sources but only appears when a fish is stressed. Ich occurs due to poor water quality or unnecessary stress. 

Ich appears as tiny white dots throughout the fish’s body, although they’re most prevalent around fins, gills, and eyes. 

If you notice ich in your aquarium, consider moving any infected fish to a quarantine tank to prevent spread and look at correcting any unsatisfactory water quality parameters. 

Treat using Herbtana or some sort of anti-parasite. Some suggest treating with an anti-bacterial in between anti-parasite treatments. 

Salt baths are a common cure but they are not always successful and they’re also very stressful for your fish. 

Hole in the Head

Hole in the Head is another issue among freshwater Cichlids. The problem is evident, with your fish having a hole or depression in the side of their head. 

The best treatment involves multiple treatments; because the cause is uncertain. Treat the tank with an anti-bacterial as well as an anti-parasite. The parasite believed to be the culprit is Hexamita, but the hole is prone to bacterial infections. 

Many professionals believe the disease is caused by poor water quality, so check and fix any water quality parameters. 

Cycling Your Cichlid Tank

There are many ways to cycle a fish tank. I would suggest a bottle of bacteria starter while you feed the tank. And when I say feed the tank, I mean to feed the tank as if you had fish in there already.

While your aquarium is running (fishless, lights and heater on) add fish food to your aquarium. This creates ammonia for the starter bacteria to eat and allows your nitrogen cycle to begin. 

Liquid ammonia can also be bought from the store and appropriately dosed into the tank, although I would still recommend starter bacteria for your aquarium. 

Often these bottles suggest waiting 24 hours, but the much safer and smarter method is to test your water regularly until it has completed cycling. 

In the first stages of cycling, you should be able to read ammonia and/or nitrite on your test kit. Soon, the testing should show nitrate. Continue cycling until only nitrate is left. 

Sometimes cycling requires additional dosing of bacteria. Make sure your tank has cycled completely before adding any fish to your aquarium. 

If adding multiple fish, add them slowly while keeping track of your water quality parameters. If you add too many fish at once and too much waste accumulates, your bacteria colony will not be able to keep up. Be wary, especially with new aquariums. 

Ammonia Poisoning

Ammonia poisoning is common in new aquariums, mainly when stocked heavily. Ammonia poisoning is when the tank is either uncycled, or the bacteria colony cannot keep up with the waste produced in the aquarium. 

The best way to treat ammonia poisoning is to take preventative measures. Here are some tips to prevent ammonia poisoning in your aquarium

• Do not overfeed
• Remove uneaten food or excess waste.
• When doing water changes gravel vac to remove waste.
• Do not add too much stock at once
• Be careful when cleaning. You do not want to get rid of your bacteria colony completely.

If ammonia poisoning does occur, you will notice your fish gasping. Another possibility is their gills will turn red and possibly bleed. 

Perform a small water change to reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank. The only thing you can do to help the ammonia levels in your tank will be to add beneficial bacteria. In the meantime, you can add zeolite to your filtration to lower ammonia levels and help keep them regulated. 

Do not deep clean your aquarium! Add starter bacteria or gravel from a well-established tank and monitor your ammonia levels. Ammonia poisoning can be lethal to fish, but the only way to get your aquarium levels back under control will be to cycle your tank again. 

Excessive Nitrates

Almost every newcomer to Cichlids runs into this issue. Cichlids are heavy waste producers and will produce nitrates quickly. The best way to maintain ideal nitrate levels is to do regular water changes and consider heavier filtration. 

Do not perform a large water change if you are having issues with high nitrates. The sudden change in nitrates could shock your fish. Chances are they can handle the higher nitrates better than the sudden change in water chemistry. 

Monitor your nitrates and put your fish on a diet for the time being. I mean, no food and little water change every other day until the nitrate levels fall to acceptable numbers. You might find if your nitrate levels get too high, one of the first things your fish will do is stop eating. 

There are a couple of ways to help with excess nitrates, and the best way to deal with any issues is to stay on top of your water quality. 

To help stay on top of your nitrate levels, consider

• Nitrate reducing foam
• Multiple water changes spread throughout the week (25% or less)
• Rethinking how much you’re feeding
• Protein skimmers

Final Word

African Cichlids are beautiful pets with great personalities and complex behaviors.

With a careful introduction, research, they make ideal aquarium inhabitants for both beginners and advanced aquarists. Consider this care guide carefully and enjoy your colorful new pet!

Read more: 

• Guppy Fish Care: Complete Guide
• Oscar Fish Car: Complete Guide

The post African Cichlids Care Guide and Tank Setup appeared first on aquaticly.com.

And, fortunately, Oscar care isn’t so difficult.

If you want to keep an Oscar and you have some questions about their care, you’ve come to the right place! Read along to get a comprehensive review of how to care for Oscars. 

All About Oscar Fish

Technically in the Cichlid family, Oscars hail from South American River basins in Peru, Ecuador, Brazil, and Columbia. They reach up to eighteen inches at maturity and they can do it surprisingly quickly. They can grow as much as an inch in one month! 

Behavior & Temperament

Oscars are not known for their sweet temperaments. These feisty freshwater fish are territorial in nature. They need large tanks, and often don’t do well in community settings. 

Your Oscar will need a 75 gallon aquarium as an absolute minimum with no additional tankmates. Due to their aggressive nature, there should be no tankmates that can fit in its mouth. Ideally, they should only be housed with other South American Cichlids that are larger in size. 

Despite Oscars’ rough-around-the-edges temperament, they are responsive and rewarding fish to keep. 

Additionally, you should also keep a lid on your Oscar’s aquarium. Oscars tend to jump out of their aquarium to explore their surroundings. 

They’re particularly prone to jumping out of tanks during feeding times. Anyone who has kept an Oscar can tell you these are some hungry fish!

Diet

Oscars aren’t picky when it comes to food. They’re very willing to eat their tankmates if they happen to be mouth-sized, so keep that in mind! 

Fortunately, though, Oscars are easy to feed. Cichlid Pellets can make up most of their diet. To spice up their diet, you can also feed them crickets, feeder fish, mealworms, and locusts. Yum! 

Oscars always seem hungry. They often pace their tank and follow passersby, hoping for an extra meal. Sometimes finding a balance for feeding time is hard. 

Feed your Oscar twice a day and monitor how much food they can eat in a minute. Afterward, make sure to remove excess food. If you feel like they might still be overeating, monitor your water quality. Overfeeding will raise your nitrates considerably and can be harmful to your fish.

How long do they live?

Oscars live 10-13 years on average. So they’re a real commitment! Similar to getting a dog in some ways.

Different Types of Oscar Fish

The main three types of Oscars are: Red Oscars, Tiger Oscars, and Albino Oscars. 

However, a wide variety of unusual Oscars are available through selective breeding. There are Black Oscars, White Oscars, Lemon Oscars, Green Oscars, Blue Oscars, Veil Tail Oscars, and even a Florida Oscar.

Setting up your Oscar Fish Tank

Let’s go over some of the specific requirements that you need to cover in order to set up your Oscar fish tank.

Aquarium size

Your Oscar will need a minimum of a 75-gallon tank. Oscars are large fish and they enjoy having room to swim. They also produce a heavy bioload (essentially waste), which means they need extra water to help with water quality. 

If you want to keep two Oscars, we suggest a 120-gallon tank or more. The same goes for adding non-Oscar tankmates, the more tankmates you have, the more room you need.

You can start them off in a smaller tank, but keep in mind that they’ll quickly outgrow it.

Remember, the larger the tank, the better your fish’s quality of life. 

Type of Substrate

Oscars like to rearrange their furniture. If you watch your Oscar, you will notice them rearranging decorations and even the pebbles in their substrate. 

Both sand and gravel are an adequate substrate for Oscars. I prefer the larger rock pieces since Oscars like to put their substrate in their mouths and spit it back out! 

Only a minimum substrate is necessary; the substrate layer can be anywhere from 1-2 inches. 

Filtration

Oscars are high waste producers, make sure to provide ample filtration, and check your water quality regularly. There’s not a one-size-fits-all for aquarium filtration. If you look into the subject of aquarium filtration, people tend to have different preferences. 

There are many different filters on the market. I recommend a canister filter or a large overhead filter. Oscars require excellent filtration, so make sure that you pick a proper filter. 

Another good option is an aquarium sump. An aquarium sump allows you to add different filtrations outside of the tank. A sump also allows you to conceal most of your aquarium filtration.

There are three types of filtration you should keep in your aquarium: 

• Biological
• Mechanical
• Chemical

Mechanical filtration can come in the form of filter sponges or the standard cartridges that come with your filter. The mechanical filtration removes large debris and food from your tank. 

Biological filtration will prevent your tank from cycling. Think of biological filtration as anything that will adequately hold bacteria, for example, lava rocks, substrate, eco stone, and decorations. Biological filtration is particularly important with high waste producers because the high amount of waste makes you more susceptible to new tank cycling. 

Chemical filtration is different filter media designed to remove impurities from the water. I highly suggest using activated carbon or high capacity GFO as a form of chemical filtration in your tank. 

When adding carbon or GFO to your tank, make sure you rinse it thoroughly and use the proper amount listed on the product. If using activated carbon, I would also suggest purchasing a phosban reactor. 

The reactor prevents carbon from leaching, which causes spikes in phosphates. Leached carbon leads to unwanted algal blooms!

Lighting

Compared to most fish, Oscars do not have particular lighting requirements. Overall, Oscars prefer low lighting. 

If you want to help your energy bill opt for an LED light. LEDs have two additional bonuses, as well. They won’t add extra heat to your aquarium and Oscar colors really pop under LEDs! 

Plants and Decorations

Your Oscar loves to move his decorations around; it’s a lot of fun to watch! The main takeaway, though, is do not put anything that will be easy to break in the tank. 

Your Oscar could potentially destroy your tank and/or hurt themselves.

Tank decorations can be weighted down to prevent your fish from moving them, such as fake plants. 

Real plants can work. However, keep in mind that your plants run the risk of being destroyed so I wouldn’t buy anything too expensive or grow too attached. 

Driftwood is an excellent addition to your tank. Not only is it similar to an Oscar’s natural environment, but driftwood helps lower the pH of the tank and keep their water soft. 

If you decide to keep driftwood in your tank, you may want to boil it several times before introducing it to the tank. Treating your driftwood is helpful if you do not want to release tannins into your aquarium. Tannins are not harmful to your aquarium or Oscar, but they will turn your aquarium water to a dark brown. 

Essentially, just boil it as many times as it takes for the water to stop turning brown. Once you boil it and the water remains clear, you should be good to go. 

If you’re looking for enrichment for your Oscar, you can put easily movable pieces of décor in the aquarium. Make sure anything you give them is not small enough to be swallowed though and ensure that it’s aquarium safe. 

Tank Environment for Oscars

Water Temperature

74-81 degrees Fahrenheit 

Water Flow

Ideally, there should be a heavy water flow in your Oscar’s aquarium. Generally, the higher the flow, the better. Oscars enjoy surfing and will do well with a water turnover rate of 4-12 times per hour. 

pH, Acidity & Alkalinity Levels

Oscars have a large range of tolerance when it comes to pH. Freshwater fish prefer acidic water, but Oscars prefer a range from 6.8-7.4. Oscars are even known to tolerate pH between 6.0-7.8.

Even though Oscars have a wide pH tolerance, they will not tolerate large swings in pH. Make sure to be careful when adding fish and be prepared to adjust for pH if necessary. 

If your pH is too high you can add almond leaves or driftwood to your tank as a simple remedy. 

If your pH is too low, you can add small amounts of baking soda. Start with 1 tsp per gallon, until you reach your desired pH. 

You can also buy additives to help raise the pH at your local pet store. 

You will find a low amount of alkalinity, if not none, in your freshwater tank. Alkalinity is a buffer for swings in pH. Alkalinity can be added to the tank in a powdered form. Make sure anything you purchase to increase alkalinity will not also increase your pH. 

Chlorine and Chloramines

Tap water has ions and heavy metals that are not appropriate for aquarium fish water. 

Fortunately, there are plenty of options for keeping your water safe for your Oscar. One of the most common options is to use a water conditioner, which removes the chlorine and chloramines from your aquarium. 

Two other options are to purchase an Reverse Osmosis (RO) or Deionized (DI) unit to make safe water for aquariums. You can also buy RO or aquarium safe water at your local pet store. 

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

Ideally, there should be no ammonia or nitrite in the tank. When there are even trace amounts of these molecules in your aquarium, you run the risk of stressing your fish and ultimately killing your Oscar. 

To prevent ammonia or nitrite, make sure to cycle your tank. Regular tank maintenance, such as water changes and cleaning mechanical filtration, helps to prevent ammonia and nitrites after a tank cycle. 

If you notice trace amounts of either nitrite or ammonia, perform a water change and add some natural biological booster to your tank. The biological booster will help speed up the new cycling to keep your water safe for your Oscar. 

When you first get an Oscar and perform your water quality tests, you will find that your nitrates are much higher than you would have imagined. 

No harm! It’s best to keep nitrates under 20ppm, but at 40ppm, you still have time and plenty of opportunities to lower your nitrates. These high numbers are due to their large appetites and since they produce a substantial amount of waste. 

To prevent nitrate buildup, do a 25% water change once a week and regularly change or clean any mechanical filtration you have. If nitrates are still climbing in your tank considering either cutting back on food or doing two 25% water changes per week. 

Another option to reduce nitrates is to add a protein skimmer. Protein skimmers work best when they are in the sump, but protein skimmers that hang over the side of the aquarium are also available. 

Common Challenges with Oscars

Diseases and Treatments

Hole in the Head Disease

The symptoms of this disease are exactly what you’d expect, your Oscar will have small to large divets in its Head. Hole in Head is a parasitic infection caused by the parasite Hexamia. 

If you feel your fish is in the early stages of Hole in the Head, check your water parameters to make sure there are no significant fluctuations. Often times, Hole in the Head disease is caused by poor water quality. 

Another possible culprit is the diet for your Oscar. Feeder fish often carry ich and can leave your tank susceptible to bacterial infections. If you notice signs of bacteria in the tank (cloudy eyes, spots on fins, etc.) treat your fish in a quarantine tank for bacteria. 

Hole in the Head can also be brought on by a poor diet as well. Make sure your Oscar gets a variety of foods and is fed a proper diet for their species. 

When keeping any fish, it’s best practice to have an active quarantine tank where you can administer medications. Your quarantine tank should be set up similarly to the first tank and should be in use for the duration of the treatment.

The best way to treat Hole in the Head is to prevent it. In the early stages of the disease, you can correct water quality parameters and allow your fish to heal. 

If the disease has progressed, make sure to quarantine your Oscar and administer both anti-parasitic and anti-bacterial solutions to your fish. There are plenty of options in both categories at your local pet store. 

When your fish has recovered, there will be scarring from the disease. A helpful suggestion is to take a picture so that if you can be sure if there are new marks if you believe there is a future outbreak. 

Ich

Ich is not a disease that plagues only cichlids. Ich is the stuff of nightmare for hobbyists, but it can be controlled. Prevention is critical in creating an Ich free tank!

Ich is a parasite that is often present in aquariums, but it doesn’t expose itself until there are unstable water conditions. It will look like small white spots surrounding the entirety of your fish. The key is to catch ich fast, with early warning signs being as simple as fish rubbing against their décor. 

Regularly check your water quality and quarantine any live animals that are entering your system. Everyone has their own arrangements for quarantine. Some allow for a three-day quarantine, while others plan for an entire month. Generally, the more money/time/love you’ve spent on your tank, the longer you’ll want to quarantine. 

If your aquarium does not have plants, add some aquarium salt in your sump or filter. Aquarium salt works well for the prevention of ich, especially when used in conjunction with proper diet and tank maintenance. 

Isolate any fish you have with ich and treat them with a parasitic medication and a bacterial and fungal medication. The combined treatments help prevents future complications that often follow ich. Make sure to keep the stress low on your fish during this time. 

In the main tank, you can raise the temperature to at least the 80 degrees Fahrenheit and allow the tank to sit for at least one week. Make sure to set parameters back to normal for your Oscar before reintroducing them to the aquarium. 

Fin and Tail Rot

Fin and Tail Rot is a bacterial infection. The signs are apparent to the name. Your Oscar will have torn, bloody, or darkened fins. 

This disease is due to issues with water quality, stress, and overcrowding. Check your water quality parameters and consider upsizing your tank or rehoming fish if crowding appears to be an issue. 

Treat with a bacterial medication and improved aquarium conditions. 

Popeye Disease

Yikes, this one is gross! Once again, an aptly-named disease, your Oscar will typically have one eye-popping out of its socket, usually hazy or discolored. 

Popeye is typically brought on by poor water conditions. Check all the water parameters and get them back into an acceptable range. 

Chances are good that your fish will lose their eye, even if caught early and properly treated. Popeye does not happen unless water quality conditions continue in a poor state for too long. The best prevention for Popeye is to make sure that your aquarium is maintained correctly. 

Septicemia

Septicemia is a bacterial infection that often occurs because of an injury that develops into a disease. Make sure that your tank is safe for your Oscar, with no pointy blunt objects. Aggressive tankmates may also be a culprit.

Treat with an antibiotic regimen in a quarantine aquarium, and make sure that water conditions are ideal before reintroducing your Oscar. 

Cycling Your Oscar Tank

Ammonia Poisoning

It’s easy for your Oscar’s aquarium to develop ammonia. If the tank is new, if there was a large addition of fish, or if you didn’t perform water changes for a considerable amount of time; your Oscar might be suffering from ammonia poisoning. The most common symptom is fish gasping at the surface of the water and/or a lack of appetite. 

If your fish is exhibiting symptoms and your ammonia is reading high, do a 50% water change. Add biological booster when refilling the water. Then, continue to perform significant water changes with booster every other day until the ammonia is no longer present (or reading negligible) in the tank. 

Excessive Nitrates

Nitrates can climb quickly in a cichlid tank. Nitrates will not kill your fish immediately but they could if allowed to continue long-term.

The only way to prevent excessive nitrates is to do regular water changes and keep up with maintenance on filtration systems. Fish will often stop eating and might experience a loss of color when excessive nitrates are in their aquarium. 

If nitrates are high, be careful performing substantial water changes, this could shock your fish. Perform a 25% water change two to three times a week until the nitrates are at least under 40ppm. If you are performing 25% water changes twice a week and your nitrates are still high, consider lightening up the bioload on your aquarium by reducing food or the amount of fish. 

FAQs

How do you prevent Oscars from jumping out of the tank? 

The best way to prevent Oscars from jumping out of your tank is to have a well-fitted lid on the tank. 

What are suitable tank mates for Oscars?

Your Oscar does not make the best tankmate; that said, they are capable of being housed with other species of African Cichlids and even other Oscars. If you decide just to get one Oscar, don’t worry, unlike community fish, your Oscar can live a healthy, happy life without an aquarium friend. 

Make sure to provide ample room for if you do add more fish. Your Oscar is more likely to be agreeable with his new tank mate if there is plenty of room for both him and his tankmate!

When adding a fish to your tank, make sure you feed your current fish before introducing the new tankmate. Another good trick is to rearrange the decorations right before introducing a new fish to the tank. 

And definitely do not buy a fish that could fit in your Oscar’s mouth; you won’t have that fish for long! 

Final Word

Oscars are excellent aquarium residents for both beginners and pros. Their bright colors and interesting personalities make them truly special.

They can come with their fair share of challenges, such as large tank sizes and heavy filtration needs. But take the extra time to get everything set up properly and set yourself up for success with these amazing cichlids! 

The post Oscar Fish Care Guide appeared first on aquaticly.com.

But there are a few things to consider before adding one of these little fish to your tank, including the fact that their name is a little deceiving. Let’s take a look at everything you need to know about caring for a Chinese algae eater.

Chinese Algae Eater Habitat and Appearance

Before adding any fish to your aquarium, you must consider its natural habitat. If you want your fish to live long, healthy lives, you have to try to recreate this environment as best you can for them. 

The Chinese algae eater is a freshwater catfish that’s also known as a sucking loach or honey sucker. They’re native to Southeast Asia and are found in the Mekong River basin and the Xe Bang Fai River, near Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, and parts of China.

They spend most of their time using their mouths to stick to rocks and other flat surfaces on the riverbed, even as the current goes flowing by above them. Chinese algae eaters primarily hang out at the bottom of streams and riverbeds, eating up algae and other detritus, and their gills are developed in such a way that they don’t have to release their grip to breathe.

Chinese algae eaters have a long, thin body with small fins. They look a lot like other pond fish that spend their time at the bottom of a river or aquarium, though they’re a little bigger than most. In the wild, they can get up to 11 inches long, but they usually only reach about five inches in an aquarium environment.

Chinese algae eaters are pale brown with a dark stripe down the side that sometimes break into spots. Most kept in an aquarium maintain these colors, though albino varieties that are gold in color are also available.

Learn as much as you can about this fish before adding it to your aquarium. This is true of any fish, but especially this one. They live anywhere from five to 15 years, so there’s a chance you’re going to be taking care of it for quite a while!

All in all, the Chinese algae eater is a fascinating fish, but don’t let their name fool you. There is a lot more to these aquarium fish than meets the eye. Is it right for your tank? Let’s take a closer look.

Tank Size and Environment

Juvenile Chinese algae eaters are about two inches long. You might see them in a pet store and think they’d be a good fit for your 10 or 20-gallon tank, but they grow into a larger fish and need a lot more space than you think.

As we mentioned, adult Chinese algae eaters in an aquarium environment usually grow to about five inches, but they need a lot of space when fully grown. Remember, they’re found in large rivers and streams in the wild, so the species is used to having a lot of room. When they’re young, a 30-gallon tank will do, but some people are surprised to learn that a single Chinese algae eater needs at least a 50-gallon tank when full-grown, even at five inches. If you’re planning to keep two or more, the tank should be at least 100 gallons.

As for tank set up and environment, it’s always a good idea to attempt to recreate the fish’s natural environment. For a Chinese algae eater, that means a river rock bottom, driftwood, and rocky or sandy substrate. Most plants are safe, and bright lighting is a must to encourage algae growth, especially when the fish are young. These fish don’t care for cute decorations, castles, and other embellishments. Staying as natural as possible with a freshwater aquarium is the best approach.

Because they are used to the constant movement of river water, Chinese algae eaters need a bit of a current, which can usually be accomplished with a hang-on-the-back filter as long as it has a powerful return. In larger tanks, it’s a good idea to get an underwater powerhead or pump to create a stronger current.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Chinese algae eaters are very sensitive to water conditions. Frequent water changes are essential to keep nitrates under control. They need highly oxygenated water, too, with a temperature between 75 and 80 degrees F, but they can tolerate a wide pH range from 5.8 to 8.0.

Cycling the Tank

Cycling a new tank is always important, but it’s especially so with Chinese algae eaters. They need pristine water, and that is not possible unless the tank is properly cycled. Most people with aquariums already know the importance of cycling, but there are a lot of people who don’t understand how long the process takes.

Tank cycling is all about the nitrogen cycle. When waste builds up in the tank and begins to break down, ammonia is released into the water. Ammonia is toxic to fish, but beneficial bacteria grow in the substrate and filtration media, digesting ammonia and turning it into nitrites. Though not as deadly as ammonia, nitrites are also harmful to your fish. The bacteria break it down even more into nitrates.

Nitrates are not harmful to most fish. In most tanks, nitrates are a good sign because they show that the bacteria are effectively breaking down the ammonia and nitrites. That said, Chinese algae eaters do not tolerate nitrates well. This is why it is so important to make sure your tank is properly cycled before adding a Chinese algae eater.

There are two approaches to the cycling process. The first is using a small number of hardy fish to naturally introduce waste to the tank. White cloud minnows, zebra danios, and tiger barbs are all good options that are compatible with Chinese algae eaters.

For a 50-gallon tank, add five or six fish to the water. Be very careful not to overfeed them so as not to add too much waste. This causes a big spike in ammonia and can be very stressful for the fish, making them more susceptible to disease or even death.

Every two days or so, perform a 10 to 15 percent water change. After about a week, test the water. You can use a home kit or test strips or take a water sample to your local pet store. Most will test it for you, and some will even do it for free.

At this point, the water should have high ammonia and a small number of nitrites. Nitrites show that there are bacteria present and that they’re breaking down the ammonia. The tank needs time for more bacteria to grow and begin breaking it down even further.

A lot of people think that cycling a new tank takes a few weeks, but it can take up to two months. Don’t get discouraged. If you’ve set up a new tank and added fish only to have them die a few days later, it’s likely the tank wasn’t cycled long enough.

Eight weeks may seem like a long time, but it’s extremely important to get this right with Chinese algae eaters. Recheck the water after a few weeks. Eventually, the nitrites should drop to trace levels or zero, and the test will detect nitrates. This is also good – it means the bacteria are converting the nitrites to nitrates. At this point, cycling is complete, and you’re ready to add some fish. But you have to do it the right way.

Continue to feed your fish normally and add new fish a few at a time. Continue to check the water every few days to make sure the ammonia and nitrite aren’t spiking due to the increased bioload. The Chinese algae eater should be added last, and you have to make sure your nitrate levels are as low as possible before adding it. As we said, most fish can tolerate some nitrates, but Chinese algae eaters cannot. If you need to lower your nitrate level, feed your fish sparingly to avoid any unnecessary waste.

When doing water changes, use purified water to avoid unknowingly adding any nitrates, and check the water often.

Another way to cycle a new tank is called a fishless cycle. Rather than using live fish to introduce waste to a new tank, some people prefer a chemical bacterial booster to set off bacterial growth and the nitrogen cycle. There are pros and cons to this approach. The big plus of using chemicals is that you’re not putting any fish lives at risk. Cycling a tank naturally involves spikes in ammonia and nitrites, and some people think it’s cruel to put a fish through this. Hardy fish should be able to handle it, but you never know.

The downside is that chemical bacteria boosters don’t seem to produce the same stability as using fish. As we said, cycling with live fish takes about eight weeks or so, but a chemical supplement can take as long as six months to completely stabilize.

Maintenance

As mentioned, water quality is very important for these fish. They cannot tolerate nitrates, so adequate filtration is key. Use a vacuum siphon on the substrate with every water change to remove excess food and other waste.

Do a 25 to 50 percent water change every month, unless the tank is densely stocked. In that case, change 20 to 25 percent every week or two. Use a magnetic scraper to get excess algae from the glass when needed.

Tank Mates

While juveniles do okay in a community tank, Chinese algae eaters get territorial and aggressive as adults, so finding appropriate tank mates for them isn’t easy. Don’t be surprised if you have a Chinese algae eater in your tank that was docile but after bringing it home, its behavior changes and becomes more aggressive over the years. Avoid adding other bottom-dwellers as the Chinese algae eater sees the bottom of the tank as its space and will constantly harass anything that gets near it.

Wide, flat-bodied fish are also a no-no, particularly slow-moving ones. Chinese algae eaters are known to latch onto the side of these fish, sucking off their slime coat, which is a huge infection risk.

These fish are natural loners, so they don’t need other Chinese algae eaters around. That said, they can be kept in groups, preferably of three or more. If you keep them in pairs, one will become the dominant fish and bully the other one. With three, they’ll establish a natural pecking order and keep each other in line. This will also prevent them from attacking other tankmates. The ideal number to keep together is five, but that’s not always plausible. Remember, you need a 100-gallon tank or larger to house multiple Chinese algae eaters. If you have three, 150 gallons is ideal.

These fish are challenging to breed, so don’t worry about that too much when keeping a group of them. It’s also tough to identify the sex of a Chinese algae eater, especially when they’re young, so you don’t always have a choice in what sex you’re adding to the tank. If this is something that concerns you, keep the water temperature at the cooler end of the acceptable range, around 75 or 76 degrees. Some people believe that these fish are more likely to mate in water temperatures of 80 degrees or higher.

It’s always important to prevent overcrowding when stocking your tank, especially when you’re working around a fish like this that needs a lot of space to call its own. So, what are good tankmates for a Chinese algae eater? Top-dwelling fish are your best bet because they are most likely to stay out of the Chinese algae eater’s way.

Peaceful, fast-moving fish that stay at the top of the tank is ideal, including mollies, platies, zebra danios, white cloud minnows, tiger barbs, dwarf gourami, and platies. Avoid shrimp because they are likely to be attacked or eaten, especially when the Chinese algae eater reaches adulthood.

When setting up a community tank that includes a Chinese algae eater, planning is important. For best results, set up the tank, cycle it, and add all the other fish first. After a few days, add the Chinese algae eater. We already talked about how it’s important to make sure the nitrates are as low as possible, but adding this fish last has another benefit. If the Chinese algae eater is introduced to an established tank, it will be less likely to see it as its territory and may be less aggressive.

Feeding a Chinese Algae Eater

Chinese algae eaters have a misleading name. While they do eat a lot of algae when they’re young, they’re omnivores that prefer meatier foods as they get older. A young Chinese algae eater might be happy living off of only the algae growing in your tank, but, as it matures, a more well-rounded diet is needed. If you don’t provide it, the fish might begin attacking other things in your tank.

When the fish is young, leave some algae in your tank while cleaning so it has something to hunt around for, and offer a high-quality flake food or algae wafers, too. You don’t have to do this when the fish matures. They won’t want algae in the tank anymore once they know that other food is available.

If you prefer a natural option, these fish love crushed lettuce, spinach, shelled peas, and small pieces of fruit. Supplement occasionally with brine shrimp and bloodworms to make sure they’re getting the protein that they would find in their natural environment.

Remember that these fish are bottom-eaters, so sinking food is a must, especially in a community tank shared with top feeders. Give flake food daily and an algae wafer every other day. Offer bloodworms or brine shrimp once or twice a week.

Is a Chinese Algae Eater Right for You?

Chinese algae eaters are a fascinating fish with a lot of personality. That said, they’re not for everyone. Some people are surprised by the change in temperament and eating habits that occur as they mature.

Young Chinese algae eaters are happy to clean the algae from your tank and may leave their tank mates alone, but, as they age, they’re less likely to be satisfied eating algae and may become aggressive and territorial.

Still, with a big enough tank and the right setup, it’s entirely possible to have a community tank that features a Chinese algae eater. Just remember to keep a close eye on the water parameters and supplement their diet appropriately.

The post Chinese Algae Eater Care Guide: Size, Tank Mates and More… appeared first on aquaticly.com.

It’s no wonder these fantastic fish are called “angelfish”.

But don’t let their beauty and gracefulness fool you. Angelfish can be aggressive towards other fish. They’re multidimensional fish, with several sides to their personality.

And angelfish aren’t only a saltwater fish. There are freshwater angelfish as well.

Like any other fish, angelfish have special specific needs.

Finding everything you need to know about angelfish care in one place is hard. We gathered all the info you’ll ever need to know about angelfish to create this ultimate guide.

Origins of the Freshwater Angelfish 

The freshwater angelfish belong to the fish family Cichlidae. They’re native to South America, especially in Brazil. They can also be found in Columbia, Ecuador, Guiana, and Peru.

And they’re most often found in the Amazon River or tributaries winding through these countries.

The Amazon River is a slow-moving river. And angelfish thrive in this tropical environment.

They also like low-lit and shady areas with overgrown plants that hang over the river. And they hide under trees that have fallen into the river.

The freshwater angelfish was introduced in Europe in 1920. Which led to breeding for the first time in 1930 in the United States. 

Species of Freshwater Angelfish 

There are three different species of the freshwater angelfish.

On average, a freshwater angelfish from a pet store will cost you $10. Specialty breeds run from $20 to $40 per fish.

Pterophyllum Altum

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First, there’s the Pterophyllum altum. These angelfish are found in northern Brazil, southeastern Columbia, and southern Venezuela.

They live in the Orinoco River Basin and the upper Rio Negro watershed.

Pterophyllum Leopoldi

Next is the Pterophyllum leopoldi. The leopoldi is a hard breed to find when looking for aquarium fish.

They have anywhere from 29 to 35 scales in a lateral row with a straight dorsal contour.

They’re fast growers and need large aquariums when they reach adulthood.

This species lives in the Amazon River, Essequibo River, and Rupununi River.

Pterophyllum Scalare

Last, there’s the Pterophyllum Scalare. This is the most common aquarium angelfish.

They have somewhere between 35 to 45 scales in a lateral row with a notched dorsal contour.

They’re easy to raise and to care for.

The scalare is found in several countries including Brazil, Columbia, and Peru. Their native homes are in the Amazon River and the Amazon Basin. 

Colors of Freshwater Angelfish 

Thanks to decades of angelfish breeding, there are tons of colors and designs out there.

Some of these unique breeds include:

• Albino Angelfish: Albino angelfish are like other albino animals. They lack pigmentation so they’re all white. And their eyes are pink or even a reddish color.
• Black Lace Angelfish: Black lace angelfish are black, except for their fins. If you look close enough, you can see a pattern underneath all that black.
• Blushing Angelfish: Blushing angelfish are one of our favorite angelfish breeds. They’re an off-colored white. Under their eyes is a red or orange color, much like the fish are blushing.
• Gold Angelfish: This breed of angelfish is a beautiful golden color. Sometimes they’re covered in gold. Other times, they have a golden (or orange) colored crown or halo.
• Koi Angelfish: You know the big koi fish? Now imagine one of those fish shrunken down into an angelfish. Like a koi, they’re a whitish and gray color with black spots. On the top of their heads is a gorgeous and bright orange color.
• Leopard Angelfish: Juvenile leopard angelfish are covered in spots with large spaces between them. As they age, those spots grow closer to each other. This gives them the appearance of leopard spots.
• Marble Angelfish: The marble angelfish is another one of our favorite breeds. They have a silver base and on top of the silver is black. The black is always some kind of pretty and unique pattern. These fish are resistant to most fish diseases.
• Silver Angelfish: The silver angelfish is a beautiful silver color with four vertical strips on their body.
• Veil Angelfish: These angelfish have fins that are longer than other angelfish breeds. They come in different colors and patterns. And they’re sensitive to too warm water and hot water.
• Zebra Angelfish: Zebra angelfish look a lot like the silver angelfish but smaller. They’re a silver color with black stripes. They can have up to six stripes. 

Lifespan of the Freshwater Angelfish 

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Freshwater angelfish start to mature around the age of 10 months. They grow up to six inches in length. Their angel-like wings grow up to eight inches in height.

They can live up to 10 to 15 years in an aquarium. They have a long tank life as long as they’re well taken care of. 

Diet of the Freshwater Angelfish 

Freshwater angelfish are omnivores. They don’t have a difficult diet to contend with. You only have to make sure they have a balanced diet between meat and plants.

Alongside fish flakes, you should feed your angelfish blood worms, brine shrimp, krill, and water fleas.

These can be live or frozen. But don’t feed your angelfish too much frozen food.

You don’t have to supply an angelfish with fiber only through fish flakes or pellets. You can feed them cooked romaine and spinach from time to time.

You must feed your angelfish two times a day. They feed at the surface or mid-level of the aquarium. Feed them as much as they can eat in one minute.

If you feed them more than that, they will continue to eat. This leads to overeating. When they overeat fat builds up, like on a human. This fat build-up will kill your angelfish. 

Aquarium Specs for Freshwater Angelfish 

Freshwater angelfish aren’t a difficult fish to care for. But they’re picky creatures who need their needs met in their aquarium.

Aquarium Size: 30 gallons or more, tall aquarium

Temperature: Between 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 84 degrees Fahrenheit

pH: Between 6.8 and 7 with hardness between 54 and 145 ppm

Light: 8 to 12 hours of light a day

Water for the Aquarium 

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The water for your aquarium should come from a pet store or an aquarium store. They have high-quality water filtered for healthy fish.

We recommend avoiding tap water. There’s chlorine in tap water. Some areas have more than others. It doesn’t take much chlorine to kill your angelfish. 

Substrates for the Aquarium 

The substrate for a freshwater angelfish aquarium needs to be fine-grade to medium-grade. A smooth gravel surface is an option. It’s less expensive and easy to clean.

It allows the angelfish to forage, as in their nature. But since it’s smooth it won’t harm your fish.

But the best choice is a fine mud or sand. Again, this lets them forage but protects their fins from getting scraped up.

Sand mimics angelfish’s natural environment in the Amazon River. But it’s more expensive and tougher to clean.

So, make sure you have the time and patience if you choose sand as a substrate. 

Vegetation for the Aquarium

Freshwater angelfish prefer large broad leafs plants that they can hide under. Amazon Sword plants let them hide and it gives them a sense of their natural habitat.

Use random floating leaves to mimic the shade angelfish love.

Driftwood is also a great addition to an angelfish aquarium. If you set the driftwood up vertically, your angelfish will use this space to lay their eggs.

You can use artificial vegetation if you prefer. It’s cheaper because you don’t have to replace artificial vegetation often. They’re also a lot easier to clean than real vegetation.

Make sure they have plenty of areas to hide and areas of shade. Otherwise, you’ll have an unhappy angelfish.

Filtration for the Aquarium 

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Freshwater angelfish like to swim in slow-moving water. So, you don’t want a fast current in the aquarium.

A low-flow aeration filter is the best option for your aquarium’s filtration system.

Another option is an underground filter. Underground filters can’t provide fast-moving water due to its’ location. 

Behavior of the Freshwater Angelfish 

Angelfish are a complicated freshwater species. They don’t have behavior that’s set in stone. Some variables determine how they’re going to act.

They can be scared easily by loud sounds or fast movements from out of nowhere. They’re sensitive to jump scares.

In most cases, they are calm fish who live a peaceful life. They only want to swim, swim, swim. Oh, and breed of course.

Behavior Around Other Fish

Freshwater angelfish are community fish as long as they’re living with the right species. They’re not aggressive fish, they only have a few situations that can cause aggression.

Like with people, most of us aren’t angry people. But some situations bring out our anger.

There are fish species that angelfish just don’t like. So, they become aggressive towards them. They will fight with other fish.

The other time you’ll see aggression from an angelfish is when their aquarium is too small. They get anxious without the space to swim. They also become territorial.

It’s important to make sure you have an adequate aquarium for your angelfish.

One other issue to be aware of is that angelfish are omnivores, so they eat meat as well as plants.

This in itself isn’t a problem. But when tanked with smaller fish, they will eat them. It’s their nature.

Behavior During Breeding

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Freshwater angelfish are also aggressive during their breeding period. They’re territorial and possessive of their little angelfish.

They stick to one partner during that time for stability. The two fish create their space or territory to protect their spawn.

They’re not inviting when another fish comes around. They assume the fish is coming to eat or hurt the spawn. So, they’re proactive and attack this fish. 

Fish Compatible with Freshwater Angelfish 

Freshwater angelfish can be community fish as long as they’re swimming with the right fish.

Other Cichlids are good tank mates for your angelfish, like the Discus or Dwarf. You can mix with other species of angelfish as long as breed is not too aggressive.

Other fish to mix with your angelfish are small catfish and tetras.

They do need their space from other species. When there’s more than five fish in an aquarium, the tank should be 55 gallons. There should also be plenty of places for the angelfish to hide.

Avoid tanking angelfish with any fish that can fit in their mouths. They will eat these little fish. 

Breeding Freshwater Angelfish

 While breeding, freshwater angelfish are monogamous. They stick to one partner.

And if you plan on breeding, you need to have around six angelfish living together. Each one should be healthy so they can breed super healthy fish.

Once the angelfish are grown, you can get the breeding started. They’re able to breed around nine months. Adjust the pH of the aquarium to get close to 6.8. And change the temperature of 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

When angelfish breed, the female will lay eggs every eight to ten days. They lay their eggs on a flat surface and the males fertilize them.

After they’ve begun breeding, you’ll start feeding the two about four times a day, instead of two.

They care for their little ones through the whole process as eggs and as juveniles. They take turns hovering over the eggs to keep water circulation around them.

The breeders raise these eggs until the juveniles can swim on their own. The eggs hatch around 48 hours after they’re laid.

By five days old, the angelfish are swimming. And when they start swimming, you can feed them brine shrimp. You feed them brine shrimp until they’re about five weeks old.

Source: canva.com

After they’ve been around for a month, you can separate them from their parents.

Stressed out breeders don’t make great parents. They often eat the eggs instead of caring for them. 

Diseases of the Freshwater Angelfish 

Like all fish, freshwater angelfish are susceptible to different diseases. And angelfish can carry parasitic nematodes. Nematodes are roundworms.

An unclean tank is often the cause of nematodes. Eggs or larvae from the nematodes will find themselves in dirty tanks or even dirty food.

Once your angelfish eats the eggs or larvae, the infection process begins. And the infection lasts three months because that’s how long the roundworms live. If your fish lasts that long.

The roundworms feed off the food and nutrition your angelfish consumes. Your fish will become lethargic and may even develop cysts.

Hexamita is common with angelfish too. It’s caused by an unclean tank or infected wild prey.

When your angelfish eat something with the parasite, they’ll become infected. And they’ll develop Hexamita. It attacks your fish’s intestines.

They’ll start to lose weight and become lethargic. Their coloring will change.

The Popeye condition is a scary one that angelfish can contract. It’s named after the biggest symptom, where the fish’s eyes pop out. This is due to serious swelling.

Popeye is caused by a constant unclean tank, like most conditions. But it can also be caused by too high of ammonia or metal in the tank’s water.

The swelling happens because tissue fluid leaks behind the fish’s eyeball. The fluid builds up and pushes on the eye, causing the swelling.

Their swollen eyes might become cloudy. They’ll also get dark spots and lose their fins. Worst of all, it can lead to other infections in your fish.

Ich can affect any type of fish. Also known as White Spot disease, ich develops when the ammonia levels are too high in an aquarium. Too much ammonia equates to less oxygen.

You can spot ich by the small white spots on your fish (hence the name). Your fish will also be lethargic and lose their appetite.

It’ll eat away at their tissue, causing their death. It can also cause other types of infections. 

Final Thoughts 

Freshwater angelfish are a wonderful fish to care for. They’re calm fish most of the time and full of personality.

The many species give you a choice. But you can even mix them up for an eye-pleasing aquarium.

The post Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: The Queen of the Aquarium appeared first on aquaticly.com.

It has a variety of features and benefits that make it an excellent choice for your freshwater fish tank, including their beautiful and varied color combinations, easy to care for nature, and ability to get along with a variety of other peaceful fish.

Today, we’re going to give you the ultimate Guppy Fish Care guide, from the different types of Guppies that are available for purchase to what they eat to how to breed them.

Then, you can decide if these popular, lively, fun to watch fish are a right fit for your tank – because even though a species such as the Guppy is incredibly adaptable, they require certain conditions and companions that may not be the right fit for your aquarium.

That said, given the right circumstances, your Guppies can thrive in a home aquarium and you’ll enjoy them for years to come!

5 Facts About the Guppy

While many factors contribute to whether or not Guppies are right for you, knowing some basic information about them is a great place to start.

Let’s take a look at five important facts on the Poecilia reticulata or the Guppy before we move on to care requirements.

1. Guppies are relatively easy to care for. As long as you stick to their basic requirements and give them a clean tank and the right food, they are considered low-maintenance fish. That said, just like any other fish, the Guppy has specific requirements when it comes to compatible fish mates and water temperature, all of which we’ll get into in a bit.
2. The Guppy is considered a peaceful fish. Guppies are generally great tank mates. They are considered peaceful fish that keep to themselves but they must be kept with other fish of the same nature or they will get bullied. Male fish also have a tendency to bully other male fish, especially if there aren’t enough females around. In a relatively small tank, it is not a good idea to have more than one male Guppy around or more than one male of any species that resembles the Guppy.
3. Guppies come in a wide variety of vibrant colors and often have white stripes and spots. Even the Black Guppy is striking in color as it appears metallic in the right lighting.
4. A Guppy’s lifespan is not particularly long. In perfect living conditions, a Guppy can live to a maximum of five years but most typically live from one to three A number of factors contribute to this, including the Guppy’s stress levels, tank, water quality, and food.
5. Guppies range in size from 0.6 to 2.4 inches. Males are typically on the smaller side, about 6 to 1.4 inches long, while females are larger, ranging from 1.2 to 2.4 inches long.

History of the Guppy

The Guppy is a freshwater tropical fish with a long and somewhat confusing history. The official discovery of the Guppy dates back to 1866 when it was discovered in Trinidad.

The Guppy, or Poecilia reticulata, was discovered by Robert John Lechmere Guppy. It was taken back to British Museum where it was named the Girardinus guppii before eventually landing on its name today.

That said, there is documentation of two other people discovering the Guppy before it was found in Trinidad.

The first recorded discovery was in Venezuela in 1859 by Wilhelm Peters and again in 1861 by De Filippi on the island of Barbados.

There are nearly 300 different types of guppies which is due both to breeders actively trying to create new ones and guppies happily mating with others of different colors, sizes, and other unique features. 

The Guppy is part of the Poeciliidae family which includes other popular freshwater live-bearing fish such as the molly, platy, and swordtail. 

The Guppy is also referred to as the Millions Fish and the Rainbow Fish, not to be confused with the actual Rainbowfish which belong to a different family altogether. 

Color

While guppies come in nearly every color you can imagine, some that are more common than others. Some Guppies are metallic due to the presence of cells called iridophores.

These cells have no actual color of their own, thereby reflecting light off of the fish’s mirror platelets. This, in turn, creates an iridescent effect.

The Guppy is often more colorful on the rear part of their body with the top half being more on the pale side.

Pattern

When it comes to patterns, there is slightly less variation than the many different colors and shades of the Guppy.

Patterns vary from their body to their tail. Some common patterns seen on the Guppy’s body include:

• Tuxedo: Two different colors on the front and back half
• Cobra: Rosettes, vertical barring
• Snakeskin: Rosettes, chain-link pattern

Common tail patterns on the Guppy include:

• Lace: Resembling either a web or lace in a delicate pattern
• Grass: Thin, grass-like dots
• Leopard: Spots that resemble a leopard print
• Mosaic: Spots that connect to each other, but are irregular in size and shape

Tail Shape

There is also a large variety when it comes to tail shape. Some of the most common tail shapes of the Guppy are triangular, sword-shaped and fan-shaped.

Gender

We’ve already mentioned that Guppies come in a large variety of colors, shapes, and sizes and have different shaped tails.

But how do you tell their genders apart?

Not only are females bigger and rounder than males, but they are also typically less colorful. In the wild, female Guppies are usually grey with males being the bright and colorful ones but this has changed with domestication.

Female guppies also have shorter caudal fins than males which are not quite as wide or long.

Male Guppies are up to half the size of their female counterparts and traditionally much more colorful.

Scientifically, it’s been said that the male’s bright and colorful appearance comes from the need to attract females, with the male being the more fertile of the two.

Although the male does have longer and wider caudal fins than the female, the male and female guppy are sexually dimorphic.

This means that there are no obvious parts that indicate which gender is which. You need to rely on the other subtle differences that we just described to tell them apart for breeding purposes.

Temperament/Behavior

Generally, Guppies are peaceful fish and enjoy being kept in groups. That said, they are not a schooling fish and won’t school with others of their own kind.

They will more likely loosely hang out around each other for company.

Guppies are lively and active swimmers which makes them entertaining to watch. You’ll see the males trying to impress females by wiggling their colorful fins at them.

In fact, males spend a lot of their time displaying to females to try to entice them into mating.

Keeping Guppies in a tank with a hood is a good idea as some Guppy owners have reported their Guppies jumping out of the tank, an extinct that dates back to their evolution.

Guppies may have a natural instinct to jump to reach their available habitat in Trinidad’s mountain streams.

A healthy Guppy does not hang out at the bottom of the tank – this is a common sign of stress, illness, or injury.

As mentioned, Guppies are naturally quite lively and should be swimming all around the tank as well as going to the top of the tank to feed.

Guppies can get aggressive with other male Guppies or males of a similar species who could be mistaken for a male Guppy.

This is because male Guppies are territorial when it comes to female Guppies and the caves in which they fertilize their eggs.

If you want to avoid aggressive Guppies, make sure there are plenty of females mixed in (in a large enough tank of course, which we will cover later) or that there is only one male Guppy in the tank.

Guppy Tank Mates

Being peaceful fish that generally keep to themselves, guppies are great community fish as long as they’re paired with other peaceful fish.

So, other Guppies are generally the best choice for Guppy tank mates.

Other peaceful, live-bearing fish in their own family are great contenders for Guppy tankmates, such as the Molly, Platy, Catfish, and Swordtail.

Other choices for a Guppy fish community include:

• Cardinal Tetras
• Clown Loaches
• Pleco
• Halfbeak
• Ghost Shrimp
• Red Cherry Shrimp
• GlassFish
• Endler’s Livebearers
• Rasboras
• African Dwarf Frogs

Tank Conditions and Habitat

When considering your tank options for a Guppy, the idea is that you’re trying to replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible, in this case, the freshwaters of South America.

As with any tank, a proper setup is essential to your Guppy’s wellbeing. You need to make sure that the filter is working correctly and that it can properly cycle the water to keep it clean.

This helps maintain the proper chemical makeup of the water and prevents the accumulation of ammonia which affects the health of any fish and leads to disease and eventually death.

You also need a heater to keep the tank water relatively warm, between 75 to 82°F.

When it comes to pH, keep it between 7.0 and 7.2. Having said this, Guppies are relatively adaptable when it comes to the measure of acidity in their water – as long as it’s not too high, as this can result in death.

The lowest pH level we recommend is 5.5 and the highest is 8.5. Keep your heater at one end of the tank and a thermometer at the opposite side to keep track of whether or not the water is evenly heated.

Tank Size

Just like any other fish, Guppies have a minimum tank size that they can thrive in. Since Guppies are lively and active, they prefer a large tank to swim in.

The minimum tank size for a Guppy is a five-gallon tank.

The standard rule for fish tank size is one gallon per one inch of fish. Due to the Guppy’s varying size, you should have no more than four Guppies in a five-gallon tank.

Ten gallons and upwards are ideal for the Guppy with no more than five or six Guppies in a 10-gallon tank.

Filter

To keep your tank clean, you need a filter – this is pretty standard, Guppies or not.

Some people think that because Guppies are such versatile and hardy little fish, they do not need a filtration system. This could not be further from the truth!

Guppies can still get sick if their water parameters are off and are susceptible to ich and other bacterial infections.

A Guppy filter should have a decent system that engages in three types of filtration – mechanical filtration for debris removal, chemical filtration to remove toxins, odors, and discoloration and biological filtration to remove ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

A Guppy’s filtration system should be able to process two to four times the total amount of water in the tank per hour.

A hang on the back filter is usually fine for smaller tanks below 50 gallons. A larger tank may require an external canister filter.

Tank Setup

When setting up your tank, consider whether you’re keeping your Guppies purely for show (and companionship, of course) or if you wish to breed them and whether or not you wish to have all males, all females, or both.

When it comes to keeping your Guppies purely for show, give them lots of live plants for nutrition and so they have a place to explore. Some great live plants for a Guppy tank include Amazon Sword, Java Fern, and Hornwort.

Substrate is also a good idea, too, as it positively affects water chemistry, aids filtration, and contributes to the general well-being of your Guppies and their tankmates.

A healthy Guppy does not spend a ton of time at the bottom of the tank so if you’re keeping them for show, substrate is a good idea.

When keeping your Guppies for breeding, it is advised to keep the tank bare-bottomed so fry have easy access to uneaten food.

Using floating plants such as Duckweed and Java Moss to help aid in the filtration from the lack of substrate and also to provide a place for your fry to hide.

No matter how your tank is set up and regardless of your filtration system, your tank should be cleaned weekly with a partial water change of about 25% to allow your Guppies to thrive.

Guppy Diet

Guppies are omnivores so they do not have a problem eating whatever is put in front of them. In the wild, Guppies eat both plants and animal matter.

This diet should be replicated as much as possible in their tank.

High-quality fish flakes should be your Guppy’s main food source. While they may seem like a filler food, high-quality fish flakes are actually made up of all of the essential nutrients that your fish would get in the wild.

Plus, you can buy fish flakes that are made specifically for Guppies.

Look at the ingredients when purchasing your fish flakes. A high-quality fish food has proteins listed first, such as shrimp, earthworms, and fish.

It’s also common for fish food to contain shrimp, fish, and squid meal as well as spirulina and even garlic. Low-quality fish food contains fillers in the first few ingredients which can include wheat and soy.

While many pellets are available on the market, you should only feed your Guppies pellets in microform and those that can easily get soft and break down.

They will not be able to eat full-sized pellets with their small mouths.

Even though high-quality flake fish food contains everything your Guppy needs for an omnivorous diet, they still benefit from and appreciate live or frozen foods.

Guppies love bloodworms, brine shrimp, vinegar eels, daphnia, and micro-worms. They also like veggies and will eat small pieces of pretty much any vegetable, including zucchini, spinach, cauliflower, cucumber, carrots, and peas.

Guppies will also nibble on any live plants you may keep in your tank. Live plants help provide them with additional essential nutrients that they would normally receive in the wild.

Do not feed your Guppies more than twice a day and definitely do not overfeed them.

You should only feed your Guppies as much food as they can eat completely within two minutes. Alternate the type of food you’re giving them, too, whether that be fish flakes, vegetables, or live or frozen food to make sure they’re getting all of the nutrients they need.

Guppy fry need to be fed more frequently and in smaller amounts.

This is why it’s usually better to isolate your fry in a small tank or purchase a separator with the tank to tend to their specific needs.

You can feed your fry the same food that you feed your adult Guppies, just make sure it’s crushed up. There is also food made specifically for fry available.

It’s ideal to feed Guppy fry four to five times a day.

Breeding Guppies

Guppies are notorious for breeding constantly.breeding constantly. In fact, when you purchase a female Guppy, you should assume that she’s probably expecting – there’s at least a 50% chance.

If you’re interested in breeding your Guppies, there are a few things to know to make sure you’re prepared.

If you have Guppies of the opposite sex in your tank, odds are they’re going to breed, whether you’re ready or not!

Here’s what you need to know about breeding Guppies:

• Guppies are ovoviviparous – what does this mean? It means that they are technically livebearers but that the females grow their fry inside an egg, inside their body. The way this works is that the fry uses the egg sac for nourishment as they grow inside their mother. When they’re ready to hatch, they absorb the egg sac and hatch inside of their mother. Their mother gives birth to live fry.
• Although Guppies do not have any telltale sexual organs on the outside that makes their gender a dead giveaway, there are multiple ways to tell them apart once they reach sexual maturity. Sexual maturity for a Guppy will occur between three and five months of age when male and female Guppies start to look visibly different from each other. As mentioned, a male Guppy is not only brighter in color than the female but also noticeably smaller in size. Males also have longer and wider caudal fins than the female.
• Female Guppies usually have a gravid spot that gets darker during pregnancy. In fact, the very first sign that a female Guppy is pregnant is this yellow-brown spot located where the Guppy’s abdomen meets its tail. Because a Guppy’s abdomen is translucent, this spot is actually the developing embryos that you can see through its skin.
• Guppies breed by the male making brief contact with the female so it’s very unlikely that you will ever notice your Guppies mating. Male Guppies have a gonopodium which in their case is their anal fin. Their gonopodium has a tube that delivers packets of sperm to the female Guppy. The male Guppy passes its sperm to the vent where the female’s gravid spot is located.
• A female Guppy can be impregnated multiple times from the same fertilization which she stores in her body. One packet from the male Guppy contains thousands of sperm.
• The Guppy embryos are nearly completing formed about four to five days after the egg is fertilized. For the next 21 to 30 days of the gestation period, the fry develop their organs.
• Once the female gives birth, the cycle repeats all over again due to the remaining sperm left in her body. So, expect another influx of fry in a few weeks to a month’s time!

Successfully mating and giving birth to the fry is the easy part – unfortunately, making sure the Guppy fry stay alive long enough to grow presents challenges.

The female Guppy will attempt to eat her fry. This is a phenomenon known as filial cannibalism and is not specific to Guppies.

Some fish, such as the Angelfish, help take care of their fry and make sure they are able to grow. Guppies do not fall into this category.

There are many reasons why Guppies may be eating their fry but they can’t be completely proven. Some theories are simply that Guppies mistake their own fry for food, although this seems somewhat unlikely.

Another is that Guppies are trying to replenish their fat storage after giving birth or that they’re simply trying to weed out the offspring that are naturally weaker and don’t have as much of a chance at surviving.

Either way, it is wise to use a breeding trap or tank for your female roughly a week before she is due to give birth. Once the fry is born, separate them from the female fish immediately to prevent her from eating them.

It’s important not to stress the female Guppy during this process.

Do not place her in a breeding tank that is too small as it could cause her to become so stressed that she miscarries.

Guppy Illnesses

Guppies are known for being a hardy and adaptable fish meaning that they’re not as susceptible to illness as some other species.

This is handy when it comes to keeping them in tanks with other community fish who have more specific requirements as they can easily adapt.

That said, Guppies are still prone to certain illnesses and infections such as ich. Ich is a fungal infection that can affect all freshwater fish.

It is thought that Guppies may be more prone to Ich than some other species due to their long tails. You’ll notice Ich on your Guppies by its white, dot-like appearance, which causes your Guppies to try to scratch themselves against objects in the tank.

Guppies are also prone to fin rot which can be caused by a variety of factors.

These include poor water quality, water temperature that is too low, overcrowding the tank, poor diet, overfeeding, or moving or handling the fish. Fin rot is also very visible. It looks like your Guppy’s tail is torn.

Both of these illnesses can be treated with medication that can be purchased from your local pet store.

These medications are added to the tank water to prevent the spread of Ich in the tank and kill the cells on the infected fish.

Conclusion

We hope you found our Guppy fish care guide informative and that it has helped you decide about whether or not Guppies are the right fish for you. 

Or perhaps you’ve already adopted some Guppy friends and want to make sure you’re taking the best possible care of them.

Either way, if you feed your Guppies a well-balanced diet, keep their tank clean, and make sure they’re accompanied by peaceful companions, you’ll have no problem keeping your Guppies alive and well.

We hope you’re able to enjoy the beautiful and lively Guppy as your silent fish companion for years to come!

The post Guppy Fish Care – The Ultimate Guppies Care Guide appeared first on aquaticly.com.

This freshwater catfish is considered a suckerfish or bottom feeder and hails from South America and Panama. While the Bristlenose Pleco comes in a variety of commercially available species, the Ancistrus cirrhosus is the most common.

Think you’d like to add one of these guys to your home aquarium? We’re going to take you through the ultimate Bristlenose Plecostomus care guide for 2020, complete with information about diet, habitat, and breeding so you can be fully informed before bringing your new friend home.

Bristlenose Plecostomus Facts

Before we get too deep into our care guide, let’s get the ball rolling with a few Bristlenose Pleco facts:

• The Bristlenose Pleco is a nocturnal freshwater fish, belonging to the family Loricariidae.
• They’re known as some of the best algae eaters out there, making them a handy addition to home aquariums.
• The Bristlenose Pleco generally grows to a maximum of six inches while a common Pleco can grow to a whopping 24 inches.
• The Bristlenose Pleco is one of the smallest aquarium fish.
• In the wild, the Bristlenose Pleco lives comfortably in a variety of habitats ranging from deep rivers to shallow, low oxygen floodplains.

Appearance

The Bristlenose Pleco is easily identifiable by its unique appearance and easily distinguishable from the common Pleco. Here are a few facts about the appearance of the Bristlenose Pleco:

• The Bristlenose Pleco has a shorter body, wider head, and is fatter than the Common Pleco with their flattened body being covered in bony plates.
• The Bristlenose Pleco does not grow its signature tentacles until it reaches maturity, at which point they sprout from the head.
• One of the features that distinguish the male from the female Bristlenose Pleco is that the male’s tentacles are longer and more pronounced.
• The Bristlenose Pleco has elongated lips and a round mouth, as well as pectoral and abdominal fins.
• The Bristlenose Pleco is known as being a “master of disguise” and blends in with their environment – so don’t think you’ve lost them if you don’t see them for a while! They generally sit motionless for many hours.
• The Bristlenose Pleco generally comes in muted shades such as black, grey, brown, and olive and often have white or yellow spots scattered throughout their body. Their underside is lighter in color than the rest of their body.

Bristlenose Temperament

The Bristlenose Pleco is a fantastic choice for both beginner and advanced aquarists, possessing every quality you could ask for in a low-maintenance, easy to care for fish.

These peaceful fish adapt easily to living with other peaceful fish in a community. Because they easily adapt to their environment, they can thrive in a variety of tank conditions.

While you can keep multiple Bristlenose Plecos in the same tank, it is not recommended that more than one of these are male. Males are known for being territorial with other males of their own kind or even males of similarly shaped species.

The bony plates protecting their body provide protection when it comes to minor attacks from other fish but we would still not recommend placing them in a situation where an attack is probable.

Feeding

When it comes to feeding, the Bristlenose enjoys eating a wide variety of food and, no, they can’t live purely off of the algae in your tank! The Bristlenose is technically an omnivore but mostly enjoys a vegetarian diet.

Because of their bottom-feeder status, their main diet should consist of an herbivore sinking pellet food. The Bristlenose also enjoys the following:

• Zucchini
• Cucumber
• Shelled peas
• Broccoli
• Bloodworms
• Live blackworms

Keep in mind, bloodworms and blackworms are only necessary to the Bristlenose diet if you are planning to breed them. Otherwise, a vegetarian diet that is high in fiber will do just fine. Just make sure that what you do feed them is sinking to the bottom of the tank or they likely won’t even see that it’s there.

Inserting a piece of driftwood into the tank is a fantastic idea when you have a Bristlenose and is a sure way to get an adequate supply of fiber into their diet and improve their digestion.

Note: If feeding your Bristlenose vegetables, make sure you remove any uneaten vegetables from the fish tank to prevent waste and ammonia buildup. 

Habitat & Tank Requirements

The Bristlenose Pleco is a freshwater fish and prefers to live in an environment with a current that mimics the flow of the streams and rivers where they come from.

To achieve this, make sure that the water in your tank is both well oxygenated and has a moderate water flow. Having a suitable water pump for the size of your tank is a great way to control both. It’s always best to consult with a fish expert in your local pet store to understand the size and type of pump needed to achieve this. 

Because the Bristlenose is both a bottom feeder and nocturnal, creating an adequate number of hiding places is crucial for their happiness and wellbeing. There are many options for creating excellent hiding places for your Bristlenose, including:

• A variety of real and artificial plants
• Driftwood
• Caves
• Ornaments and decorations
• A clay pot

As well as being a hiding place and a great source of fiber, driftwood also provides a place for algae to grow for your Bristlenose to feed off of.

Having an under-gravel water system in your tank as well as a filter is incredibly beneficial for keeping your tank clean and maintaining balanced water conditions, especially with the amount of waste the Bristlenose produces. It also ensures that your tank remains highly oxygenated, which is ideal for your Bristlenose.

When it comes to choosing a filter, a canister filter is ideal for a Bristlenose. If you don’t know what a canister filter is, it works by removing the water contained in the fish tank through an intake tube, runs it through a filter in a pressurized canister, and then pumps the filtered water back into the fish tank by way of a spillway or spray bar.

Water Temperature & Tank Size

Because the Bristlenose is a hardy fish, it can handle a broader pH range and water temperature than more fragile fish. If you are housing a fragile fish in the same community tank and that fish that has more specific parameters to thrive, the Bristlenose will likely adapt just fine.

Water temperature can be kept anywhere from 60 to 80°F with a pH range of 5.5 – 7.6, both of which are wide ranges and should be easy to maintain.

The Bristlenose itself has a minimum tank size requirement of 25 gallons with 30 gallons being sufficient for two Bristlenose Plecos but the larger and longer the tank, the better. It’s best to house your Bristlenose in a tank that is longer than it is wide as they spend nearly all of their time at the bottom of the tank.

Breeding

If you want to breed your Bristlenose Pleco, it’s not difficult to do. As long as you have a mature male, two or more females, and a hiding place for them to spawn in, you don’t need to do anything to speed the process along.

As mentioned, it is best not to have more than one male Bristlenose Pleco in the same tank unless it is quite a large tank. The male Bristlenose is territorial towards other males and this behavior will only increase when it comes to breeding. In fact, they will claim their own cave just for breeding purposes and will fight another male if they try to inhabit it. They may even eat the male rival’s eggs.

When a Bristlenose is ready to breed, the male lures the female into its cave where the female releases the eggs. The male fertilizes the eggs once they’re outside of the female’s body.

The male is then responsible for guarding the eggs and fry until they leave the cave. Although a female can release up to 200 eggs at a time, only a few survive after leaving the cave.

Here are a few additional facts about breeding the Bristlenose Pleco:

• To determine if you have at least one male and female, look at their bristles. The male has large bristles that extend to the middle of its head while the female has bristles only around their mouth. Females are also noticeably smaller than males.
• A male cleans off the surfaces of its cave to prepare for the eggs when it’s ready to mate.
• A male physically pushes a female out of the cave after it fertilizes her eggs.
• More than one female may be enticed into the cave at a time in which case the male will fertilize more than one female’s eggs.
• The eggs hatch after four to 10 days and the resulting fry cling to the sides of the cave until they have absorbed their egg sacs.
• Fry can be fed with infusoria or powdered spirulina followed by baby brine shrimp as they begin to grow.
• You need a specific breeding tank if you want to keep your Bristlenose fry alive as you cannot keep that many in a community tank.
• To encourage your Bristlenose Plecos to breed, set the temperature of your tank to slightly cooler than normal as this species breeds during cooler months in the wild.
• By six months old, the fry is nearly as big as their parents.

Conclusion

We would definitely recommend adding the Bristlenose Pleco to your community tank if you’re looking for a peaceful fish that is interesting to look at and is also very useful! Not only is the Bristlenose low maintenance but it will also reduce the amount of algae buildup in your tank. While a little bit of algae is perfectly fine, too much presents an issue for your tank. Not only will it cover the walls and decorations but it could also end up presenting a health issue for your fish. If you have a peaceful community tank that you’re looking to add a new buddy to, the Bristlenose Pleco could be the right fish for you.

The post Bristlenose Plecostomus: Care Guide, Diet, Habitat, and Breeding appeared first on aquaticly.com.